Ever since jumping on Pinterest this summer, I’ve been inspired to create a miniature succulent garden. I’ve seen so many neat examples of how to incorporate succulents into your indoor lifestyle. For example, using a shadowbox and a frame to put together living artwork, a succulent necklace, hanging succulents in glass bulbs and so on. The inspiration on Pinterest is constantly flowing.

So, finally after longing to bring some life to my cold, dreary February, I decided to go for it. First, I went to our local craft store and picked up a shallow glass bowl and some decorative rocks. Then, I made a trip to a local garden center to pick out three succulents and some cactus-succulent potting soil to create my own living oasis. When picking out these succulents, I chose three types that were different heights, shapes, and textures.

When I got home I broke out the soil on my kitchen floor to begin. I first added rocks to the bottom of the bowl to help with drainage. Second I filled in some potting soil. Next, I took the two taller succulents and grouped them with each other in the back. Then I took the smaller, rose-like succulents and scattered them about in the front – trying to make the garden look natural. Lastly, I added some more potting soil and placed some more rocks on top to complete the look.

I also did some research on succulents, since I’ve never grown them before. It’s important that you get the correct potting soil and provide good drainage, as succulents do not like to sit in water because they store water inside. I watered mine right away when I was done, but then intend to wait until the soil is very dry again before watering again. It is important to make sure to provide plenty of sun – though it is best not to leave them in direct sun as they will scorch. You can easily tell if you’ve over-watered or provided too much sun by looking at the plants. If they become pale or the edges curl, they are being over-watered. If you start seeing brown spots, move them further from their light source.

It seems pretty hard to kill succulents, and I hope this is true since I’m a newbie to the gardening world. What other ways do you bring life indoors while surviving the long winter?

P.S. Check out this other blog about Outdoor Living Inspiration, they are also featuring this succulent garden as their Weekend Do-It-Yourself Project!

Ok. So you’ve decided to try your hand at forcing some flower bulbs (or your lack of time to plant the fall bulbs you purchased has decided it for you). Let’s start the process!

1. First off, you will want to decided HOW and WHERE you want to chill your bulbs. This will be largely dependent on what “chilling” resources you have available to you and also how much space you can afford to use. Ask yourself these questions: do I have any location (such as a garage, basement, shed, attic, etc.) that remains 50°F (10°C) or below and is fairly dark? Keep in mind that this area should not receive freezing temperatures for any length of time. If you do not have any such location, a refrigerator will work as well but is a tad bit more prohibitive based on a lack of space. Plus, depending on your family’s acceptance of your hobby, you may not want flower bulbs in your refrigerator besides last night’s leftovers
2. Chilling Temperature: Regardless if you are chilling them in a refrigerator or other location, it will be very
   

   An inexpensive digital thermometer can take the guess work out of selecting an area adequate for cold storage.

   important to keep tabs on the temperature in the given area. I recommend purchasing a digital thermometer (you can find one fairly inexpensive at your local garden center or hardware store) which you can place in the designated area. Look for one with an extension wire so that you can place the receptor directly in the chilling area. Or better yet, if you’re willing to invest a little more, purchase a wireless thermometer which can receive the transmittal several hundred feet away to easily keep tabs on the location without being near it. Most of these thermometers are available for under $30.00. Ideally, the temperature in your chilling area should always remain between 35°F and 48°F.

3. Refrigerator Chilling: One thing to keep in mind about chilling the bulbs in a refrigerator is the presence of produce (fresh fruits and vegetables). As fruits and vegetables ripen, they produce a gas called ethylene. This gas is somewhat a double-edged sword as it helps to signal to other fruits and vegetables to ripen but also can cause produce to ripen too quickly, therefore causing it to rot. Remember the old trick of placing bananas in a paper bag to get them to ripen faster? This is because you are essentially trapping the ethylene in a small space. This same thing is happening in your refrigerator at all times, giving the ethylene no where to go. Unfortunately, this gas has the same affect on bulbs and therefore, you will want to keep your refrigerator as free from produce as possible during the chilling period. This makes chilling your bulbs in a refrigerator a little more difficult unless you have a secondary refrigerator where you do not store your apples, pears, salads, etc.
   

   Be sure to place the bulbs in soil so that pointed tips are at the same level as the rim of the container.

4. Garage/Shed/Basement/Attic Chilling: Monitoring the temperature in an “uncontrolled” space will be extremely important. If there is a chance that the space will dip below freezing for any length of time, you will need to protect the bulbs by slightly insulating them. This can be done by wrapping the bulbs or pot (depending on how you are chilling, see following steps) with a material such as bubblewrap, a blanket, or burlap. It is EXTREMELY important that the bulbs are not allowed freeze solid. Doing so will cause them to rot and turn to mush once they thaw in the spring. Keep in mind that you are attempting to create the same process which would occur naturally outdoors artificially indoors. When a bulb is planted in a garden, even though the temperatures outdoors may dip below freezing for sometimes months at a time, this frost is evenly distributed over much more surface area. This means that the bulbs are not allowed to freeze as solid as they would if they were more exposed.
5. Next, you will want to determine how you will chill the bulbs. There are two different options: one is to plant the bulbs in pots prior to chilling them and the other is to plant them after the chilling period has past. There are advantages and disadvantages to both. The advantage to planting them prior to chilling is that it will be unnecessary to do so later once the bulbs have been chilled. If the bulbs begin to sprout or grow roots, they will already be at home in the soil and not have to go through the stress of being planted once actively putting on growth. However, having the bulbs planted in pots unfortunately takes up quite a bit of room. If space is an issue, you may opt to chill them in paper bag. If this is your case, be sure to cut adequate ventilation in the bag to allow for the release of ethylene which the bulbs will naturally produce. Overall, chilling while planted in pots is recommended and tends to yield more favorable results.
6. If chilling the bulbs in pots, chose a container with adequate drainage holes. If the pot you desire to use does
   

   Tulip bulbs potted and ready for chilling!

   not have holes for drainage, place a 1-2″ layer of stone or gravel in the bottom prior to filling with the soil. One of the most important things to remember when growing bulbs (whether doing so through forcing or naturally outdoors) is that bulbs require moisture with perfect drainage in order to be success. Therefore, use a medium that has equal parts peat moss, potting soil, sand, and vermiculite/perlite. You can use a typical potting soil with the addition of peat moss. Fill the container, leaving just enough room at the top to plant the bulbs. The bulbs should be placed in the soil, pointed ends up as close together as possible. The tops of the bulbs should just reach the rim of the container. Once the bulbs are planted and covered with soil, water the bulbs thoroughly, allowing the soil to settle around the planted bulbs. I recommend keeping some kind of log, describing which bulbs are planted in which container, the date they were planted, and your anticipated date to bring them out of cold storage.

7. Once you have either placed your bulbs in ventilated bags or potted them, move the bulbs to your chilling area. If the area tends to receive too much light, place a large bucket or box over the pots to shield them as much as possible. If you have decided to plant your bulbs in containers, these containers can be planted out-of-doors in the ground, keeping the rim at the soil surface. This can be a good option if you are intending to keep the bulbs in the pots for the growing season but not necessarily in the garden. This will allow the bulbs to receive the chilling period but will make them “mobile” once they are in bloom to use on a patio or deck.
8. The forcing process will take approximately 10-16 weeks total. After 5 or 6 weeks, the roots will begin growing. Early blooming spring bulbs (such as crocus and snowdrops) will take about 12 weeks until they are in full bloom. Mid-spring bloomers (such as daffodils, hyacinth, and some tulips) will take approximately 14 weeks, whereas the rest of the tulips can require the full 16 weeks to bloom. I will discuss this in further detail in the next forcing blog article
9. While chilling the bulbs, it is important to remember to keep the bulbs damp but not wet. I recommend the “misting method” with a cheap plastic spray bottle. Be sure not to over water and try to keep in mind the amount of moisture the bulbs would be receiving if planted outdoors under a snow cover.

This should get you started in the forcing process. Once these steps are done, you’ll be well on your way and you can sit back and relax! I am so looking forward to the thrill of seeing those sprouts begin. In the next blog, I’ll talk about the number of cold weeks required for different varieties and also explore some other ideas relating to forcing. Good luck and have fun!

Until next time,

Many differnt fall bulbs can be forced in pots, including grape hyacinth.

We’ve all been there: for one reason or another you didn’t get to planting your spring-blooming bulbs this fall. Maybe you live in an apartment or condo where you have no yard, maybe the weather turned colder faster than you expected, or maybe you just plain didn’t get to it. Whatever the reason may be, it’s a bummer. This happened to me this year. Blame it on a lack of organization or the hectic nature of my life right now, regardless of the reasons why, I want to do something about. After all, I now know that when spring comes around and I see everyone else’s beautiful tulips, daffodils, and hyacinth blooming, I’m going to be kicking myself every harder.

In thinking about this the other day and talking to one of my dear friends who shares my love for gardening, we decided to try our hand at forcing bulbs this year. In discussing this, we realized what a great idea for a blog this would be! So this is Part I of our journey in forcing bulbs. I receive MANY questions regarding how to force and thought my readers may find it interesting to be led through the process step-by-step with real life results. Who knows how we may fair! We may fail or we may succeed! But one thing is certain: we will definitely learn!

What is Forcing?

Most fall-planted bulbs (such as tulips, daffodils, and hyacinth) require a “chilling period” in order for them to bloom and grow correctly. In climates where the winter temperatures remain cold enough for an adequate period of time (zones 2 through 7), this “chilling period” is provided naturally when bulbs are planted outdoors. However, if planting outdoors is not an option or you are located in a zone 8, 9, or 10, this chilling needs to be provided some other way. When this is done, it is referred to as “forcing” the flower bulbs. Basically, you are forcing the bulbs to grow and bloom through artificial means.

Next week, I’ll review some general guidelines for getting started and the steps you should take to begin the chilling process. Come along with me on this journey! In fact, you could try this at home along with me with your own fall-planted bulbs. Be sure to let me know if you’ll be forcing your own bulbs and keep me posted on the progress!

Until next time,

The next type of spring-planted bulbs we’re going to focus on is the Tuberous Begonia. Known for their wonderful ability to grow in the shade, small habit and lush green foliage, these tubers make great addition to shady gardens and borders. In this article, we’ll review the advantages of using these beauties in your garden, as well as different planting techniques and tips for growing them.

Classification

Begonias work wonderfully along walkways and as borders to other shaded gardens.

Tuberous Begonias can typically be grouped into three types: Begonia tuberhybridia, Begonia multiflora, and Begonia pendula. The Begonia tuberhybridia types are the most commonly grown and well-known and include the Double Begonias, Ruffled Begonias, Roseform Begonias, and Picotee Begonias. The Begonia multiflora variety include the Multiple Flowering varieties with smaller, numerous blooms. The Begonia pendula are the Hanging Basket-type of begonias which trail over the edges of planters and pots. Oftentimes, the novice gardener will confuse these tuberous begonias with wax begonias, which are grown more as an annual or indoor plants and not from a tuber (or bulb).

Tubers for all three types of these begonias are typically available for purchase in late winter/early spring. They look like small brown lumps with a depression on one side. When choosing the tubers, be sure to check for firmness and look for those with tiny sprouts on the upper, concave surfaces. This is a good sign that they are healthy and ready to begin growing!

Growing Begonias

As previously mentioned, Begonias should be planted during the spring season, anytime after the threat of frost is gone but before the weather gets too warm. For most of the United States, this time period falls between mid-March and mid-May. Maybe begonia growers located in cooler climates, choose to start their begonias early (middle to end of February) indoors to give them a head start on the growing season. Many bulb companies will over this “early delivery” as on option on this partcular type of spring-planted bulb. (For more detailed information on just how to go about starting these tubers indoors, be sure to check out last year’s blog article here: http://www.bulbblog.com/start-begonias-indoors/)

This Sunrise Scentiment Begonia is of the "ruffled" type and is not only pleasing to look at, but also provides a wonderful fragrance!

Begonias will begin blooming mid-summer and will continue until frost! Begonias thrive in partial to full shade and need to be protected from hot sun and drying winds. The key to successfully growing begonias is to make sure the soild is well-drained. Begonia tubers are extremely susceptible to rot and therefore do not like any excess moisture. However, be sure to not let the soil dry out between waterings during the summer months. Fertilize once per month during the growing season with a water soluble fertilizer (such as Miracle-Grow).Always water the soil around the plants rather than the plants themselves whenever possible to avoid the forming of fungus or mildew on the foliage. The tubers should be planted hollow side up and covered with only 1/2 to 1″ of soil. Planting them too deep will only encourage rotting. Water well after planting to “wake up” the tubers but then not again until you see growth, which usually takes 4-6 weeks.

For aesthetic reasons, pink off extra long stems as the plants grow. This will encourage blooming and keep your plants from looking “leggy”. When growing the hanging basket-type, make sure they have lots of branches to cascade from their plants by pinching out the primary growing tip when the plant is 2″ tall. Also, deadhead your begonias often by removing wild=ted leaves and flowers. This will retain the “clean” look of the plants and will also encourage repeat blooming throughout the season.

Tuber Storage

Once the plants have completed their growing and blooming cycle, the leaves and flower stems will begin to die back as they enter their dormant stage. Begonias are hardy in Zones 8, 9, and 10. In these areas, simply cut the stems back to within 1-4″ of the soil surface once they have completely died back. Leave the tuber in the ground for the remaining fall and winter. If located in zones north of Zone 8 (Zones 1-7), you will need to take special care of the tubers in order to protect them from the harsh winter weather. Southern parts of Zone 7 can usually get away with giving the tubers a good drink of water in the fall and placing a think layer of mulch over the area where the tubers are planted. To be really sure, however, the tubers will need to be removed from the soil and overwintered indoors. To do so, follow these simple steps:

1. Since begonia tubers tend to be susceptible to rot, it is often a good idea to bring them indoors just before the first frost. If grown in movable planters, bring the planters indoors and gradually begin with-holding water. Once the leaves begin to die and wilt, remove the stems and leaves carefully from the tubers.
2. If your tubers are planted outside in the garden, simply dig them up (plant and bulb together) and bring them indoors prior to the first frost. The foliage will begin dying back quickly and can then be removed.
3. Gently brush off any excess dirt from the tubers and place them in a tray or pot with dry sand, peat moss, or vermiculite.
4. Store them in a cool, well-ventilated, frost-free area such as a cellar or garage over winter. A temperature of 45-55°F is ideal.
5. Replant in the spring once ground has thawed!

Those who grow Begonia tubers are some of the most passionate gardeners on earth…and it’s easy to see why! Looking absolutely gorgeous with their bright, large blooms and lush green foliage, it’s hard to believe these plants don’t need much sunlight! Whether you’re a “begonia growing veteran” or have never tried them before, be sure to make your selections early this year and get them growing as soon as possible!

Until next time,

Have a question about begonias or any other bulb gardening topic? Ask Bridget! Email her at bridget@bulbblog.com! If she features your question in a future post, you’ll receive a Holland Bulb Farms coupon for your next order at Holland Bulb Farms!

“I know you’re not supposed to plant fall bulbs in the spring but we were hit with hard winter weather rather early this year and I am left with at least 100 tulip and daffodil bulbs that were unable to get planted. Would they survive to bloom next year if I were to plant them now?”

~Dianne from Idaho

Dianne asks a very good question…and one I’ve heard quite often! We all know what it’s like to have the greatest plans for our yard that never seem to quite materialize. Sometimes you even get so motivated that you actually purchase the bulbs and yet they still never make it in the ground! Whether it’s a forgetful mind, the unpredictability of Mother Nature, or just plain running out of time, it’s okay: we’ve ALL done it. And the best news? It may not be too late for your bulbs!

These bulbs were bought with good intentions...anything you can do with them now?

The most important factor to consider when deciding what to do with fall bulbs which were never planted in fall is the conditions in which they have been stored. Were they kept in a cool, dry place since you bought them? Were they left out in the garage? Were they left on the warm kitchen table? Test your bulbs for firmness by squeezing them. Also look for signs of rot or blight by checking the outside of the bulbs for dark or mushy spots. If the bulbs feel firm and have a rather healthy-looking outside, then you’ve got yourself some winners! Most likely, if the bulb was left outside or in a very cold garage and was allowed to freeze, it is no longer salvageable.

So now that you’ve determined that your bulbs are still healthy enough to survive, it’s time to get them “chilled.” As you may or may not know, most fall bulbs (tulips, daffodils, and hyacinth to be specific) need to be chilled in order to grow and bloom properly in the springtime. When planting them in northern climates which receive consistently cool weather in the winter (Zones 3-8), this happens naturally. However, since your bulbs were not planted before the winter and now the ground is frozen, the bulbs can no longer be planted in the ground this year. This leaves you with two options:

1. Plant the bulbs in one large (or a few small) pots. Plant them at the correct depth but don’t worry too
   

   These 'Queen of Night' Tulips need to be chilled in order to grow and bloom correctly.

   much about the spacing. As long as the bulbs aren’t on top of one another or smashed side-by-side, they’ll be fine. Place this pot in a cool but not freezing garage (upper 30′s and 40′s for temperature). If you do not have a garage or shed which meets this criteria, the pot can be left outside on a patio or deck as long as it is wrapped in something which will protect it from frost (such as burlap or bubble wrap). The bulbs will then receive their necessary “chilling” period but will not freeze. In approximately 10 to 12 weeks or so, you should start to see a little growth. Once this happens, move the pot to a nice sunny patio or lawn area (or remove the bubble warp). The bulbs will continue to grow and bloom just as they would in the ground. The bulbs can then be dug out of the pot and moved to a flowerbed either during their growing cycle or after the foliage has browned and dried. OR…

2. Place the bulbs in a paper bag in the refrigerator. Be sure that the refrigerator is set at a temperature between 35°F and 50°F. Also, rid the refrigerator of any fruit (particularly apples) as these produce a plant hormone called “ethylene” when ripening which will cause flower bulbs to rot. After a period of 10-12 weeks, the bulbs may start to sprout. At this time, the ground outside should be thawed and the bulbs planted in the ground. They will then grow and bloom as normal!

One important thing to keep in mind when doing this is that the environment required by these bulbs is being artificially created. Therefore, be forgiving of your bulbs and do not expect them to be super all-star growers and bloomers the first year. It may take them a little while to readjust but after they have completed their first full growing season, you’ll never be able to tell the difference!

Because Dianne’s question was featured in the Bulb Blog, she received a $5.00 off coupon for her next Holland Bulb Farms order. Congratulations to her and thank you for the great question! Keep them coming and you may get a coupon, too!

Until next time,

Got a gardening question for Bridget? Email her at bridget@bulbblog.com! If she features your question in a post, you’ll receive a coupon of your next order at www.hollandbulbfarms.com!

Bulbs in Pots: A “One Hit Wonder” or A Lasting Treasure?

I’ve received lots of inquiries lately regarding bulbs planted in pots. We’ve all seen it: the gorgeous pots of hyacinth, tulips, and daffodils in full bloom sold at the local supermarket or floral shoppe. If you’re anything like me, you’ve probably purchased one (or at least thought about it) and triumphantly brought your little piece of spring home with you. We are all anxious for spring and who wouldn’t want a little reminder that it will one day indeed come?

So you’ve brought home the pot of adorable miniature daffodils or extremely fragrant hyacinth or maybe you’ve signed up to receive a potted Easter Lily at church and they produced gorgeous blooms for a week or two. But now what do do with these beautiful indoor bulbs after flowering? Was the money you spent on this pot of once-blooming flowers wasted? Is there nothing left to do but dispose of the pot along with the bulbs just as though it were a fresh floral arrangement? Absolutely NOT! Why not replant the bulbs in your garden or another pot to enjoy for years to come? The process is actually quite simple:

1. Once the plant has stopped blooming, discontinue watering and allow the foliage to die back.
2. Once the foliage is dried and brown, remove it from the pot by gently tugging on the leaves until they break from the bulb and come out of the ground. (If the leaves do not pull away from the bulbs easily you haven’t waited quite long enough for the foliage to die. It is very important to not remove the foliage prematurely as it helps to put energy back in the bulbs for the next year’s blooms.)
3. Remove the bulbs from the dirt and dust them off. Check for any rotten or soft spots on bulbs. If these spots are visible on any bulbs, discard them. Allow them to dry out on a piece of paper in a cool, dry and dark place (such as a cellar or basement) or plant them directly in the ground if the weather is suitable for planting.

   

4. If you live in Hardiness Zones 3 – 8 (an area that stays consistently near or below freezing for a period of at least 10-12 weeks during the winter), the bulbs can be replanted in your outdoor garden in fall, anytime between late September and early November, preferrably prior to the first frost.
5. If you live south of Hardiness Zone 8 (your winters do not fall into the above mentioned category), you will need to “pre-chill” these bulbs in October or November by placing them into your refrigerator in a brown paper bag for a period of 10-12 weeks. Be sure not to store any fruits or vegetables near your bag of bulbs as they give off a chemical called “ethylene” while ripening that can cause bulbs to rot. Once the bulbs have chilled for the correct period and may even have started to sprout, they are ready to be replanted either in the outdoors or in a pot!
6. IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER: This process of artificially chilling bulbs and then forcing them to bloom early takes quite a bit of energy from the bulb. Therefore, you may not see blooms for the next few springs. Be patient: once the bulb stores up enough energy, they’ll be beautiful once again!

So the next time you pass the floral counter at the grocery store or hear of an offer to order some potted bulbs for Easter, don’t hesitate to pick one up for yourself! Remember, spring planting bulbs work great for this, too! Good luck to you!

Until next time,

Want to learn more about planting bulbs in pots? Email Bridget at bridget@bulbblog.com! Your question may even be featured in a future blog post!

Some of the growers' fields which provide many of the begonias Holland Bulb Farms sells.

Tired of Winter? Start Spring Early with Indoor Forcing!

So the cookies have all been eaten, the Christmas tree is at the curb, and the stockings are no longer hung. Yet even though the holidays are over, the winter “duldrums” are plentiful: you’re still zipping up your bulky coat before leaving the house, you barely make it home before the sun has set, and your shovel hasn’t seen much of a break. So what now?

It is easy at this time of year to feel somewhat hopeless about the outdoors and wish that you could hibernate like the bears do. So why not start your gardening early? Most summer-blooming bulbs are great for forcing indoors, even before the ground has thawed! Not only will starting your plants indoors boost your mood and add some color to the bleak winter, but it will also give your plants a head start for the summer season. Come springtime, you’ll have the most vigorous plants in the neighborhood!

Starting Begonias Indoors

Today, I figured I’d explain the steps to starting your begonias indoors for fuller, more vigorous growth. Begonias are a great bulb to experiment with if this is your first shot at forcing since they are one of the most successful to begin indoors. Begonias also tend to be quite popular, due to their brilliant colors and ability to grow in shady areas (not to mention the namesake of my four-legged gardening buddy ) . Simply perform the following steps and you’ll be well on your way to having gorgeous begonias!

White double begonias in the grower's greenhouse.

ITEMS YOU WILL NEED:

• Begonia tubers
• Well-drained soil
• Seed trays or small pots
• Paper or plastic wrap
• General plant fertilizer
• Water

WHAT TO DO:

1. Fill the seed trays or small pots with soil.
2. In late February or March, plant the tubers (hollow side up) just below the soil level. Soil should be somewhat moist.
3. Cover with paper or plastic wrap and place on a window sill or other location with indirect maximum light. Temperature should not fall below 60°F.
4. Water sparingly until growth begins (may take up to 5-6 weeks to see growth above ground although roots have started).
5. Once shoots emerge from the soil, remove paper or plastic wrap and begin watering regularly. An application of a good liquid plant food will improve growth.
6. Once substantial growth has formed and leaves have begun to appear, transplant plants to outside container or garden.

It’s that simple! When picking a location outdoors for your begonias, remember that they thrive in semi-shade so avoid areas which receive direct midday sun. Begonias also dislike dry conditions, so be sure to water generously, especially during periods of hot weather. As with most plants, an application of well-balanced plant food every two to three weeks will encourage healthy, vigorous growth. Just remove dead, wilted leaves and flowers and you’ll have begonia blooms all summer!

The new 'Sunrise' Scentiment Begonia!

One more quick note: People are always asking me about where to purchase the newly developed fragrant begonias. One of the only places I have found them is at www.hollandbulbfarms.com. These are referred to as Scentiment® Begonias and grow with a fresh, lemony scent!

Help yourself out this year by bringing spring into your home early! And say goodbye to the winter duldrums! Good luck!

Until next time,

Like this article? Want to learn more about indoor forcing other types of bulbs? Email Bridget at bridget@bulbblog.com!

These indoor blooms make wonderful gifts and come in a variety colors!

Amaryllis: The Gift that Keeps on Giving!

As hard as it is to believe, the holidays are just around the corner. That being said, whether you’re the organized shopper who bought everyone’s Christmas gift over the summer or you’re the procrastinator without a clue, there’s bound to be someone who seems to have everything. Or what about that person that you think might drop by and need a gift “just in case”? Have you thought about your child’s teacher or Great Aunt Gertrude or your hair stylist?

How about a unique gift that they will actually enjoy? Try bringing plant life to the cold days by giving an indoor bulb! One of the most common of these indoor growing bulbs is the Amaryllis. Now I already know what you’re thinking: I don’t want to give a gift that requires WORK…let alone a plant that I know will never survive. So what if Gertrude’s thumb isn’t that green! The best part about these gifts is that they are extremely EASY to grow and fun to watch! Have grandchildren that are interested in the way things grow but are bored with the “expandable sponge animals”? Give them each an amaryllis bulb to plant and record the progress! And the best part: many times bulb websites such as Holland Bulb Farms sell these indoor bulbs in giftbox kits which include everything you need to grow the bulb. Sure takes the difficulty out of a unique gift, doesn’t it?

A close up picture of my sister's Amaryllis on her desk at work.

Allow me to tell you about my sister: My dear sister, a wonderful person full of great ideas and motivation, is not gifted with the talent of “growing things.” Or maybe better said, she has difficulty keeping plants alive Yet as far as I’m concerned, every house could benefit from some “greenery” so I gave her an amaryllis. Of course, I received the response I knew I would: “Oh thanks, Bridget. But…ah…you know how I am with plants. Do I have to water it?” I laughed and assured her that even SHE couldn’t mess this one up. I also told her that the great thing about amaryllis is that they only need to be watered once a week! Sure enough, three weeks later, I received an email from her, pictures attached. She had taken her amaryllis to her office and it had bloomed beautifully! Her only complaint was that she couldn’t get any work done because her co-workers would constantly stop to ask her what the gorgeous plant on her desk was called!

So why not try giving a unique gift this year rather than the same old gift card to McDonald’s or gaudy Christmas ornament? The blooms last for weeks and they couldn’t be easier to grow!

Until next time,

Have a question for Bridget? Be sure to email her at bridget@bulbblog.com. Have your question featured in the blog and receive $5.00 off your next order with www.hollandbulbfarms.com!