Garden Bulb Blog: Flower Bulbs & Gardening Tips

Lovely Lilies!

The next type of spring-planted bulb that we are going to focus on is the Lilies. Perhaps one of the most well-known bulbs and one of the world’s best cutflowers, both Oriental and Asiatic Lilies are known for their spectacular color displays as well as their often intense, sweet fragrance. In this article, we’ll review the advantages of using these beauties in your garden, as well as different planting techniques and tips for growing them.

These Oriental Lilies are a good example of the form and coloration of many of these types of lilies.

Classification

As I mentioned, lilies are often remembered for their pleasant fragrance and their wonderful cutting ability. This can be said about both of the main classifications of lilies, Asiatics and Orientals, although Asiatics will not have as noticeable as a scent. Asiatic Lilies tend to bloom with more solid, bold colors and often have a bit smaller flower than the Orientals. They also bloom earlier than the Oriental Lilies, often one of the first in the summer blooming bulbs category in June to early July. The slightly shorter but more slender stature, as well as the ruffled edges to their petals make the Asiatic Lilies easy to identify. As for the Oriental Lilies, the flowers of these lilies are often speckled and bear multiple colors which fade in and out of the center.  Oriental Lilies also bloom slightly later than the Asiatics, often in mid-July to early-August.

Growing Lilies

Both Asiatic and Oriental Lilies are sold as bulbs and often still bear some of last year’s roots on them when purchased. The end opposite the roots will have a slight point to it, which should be pointed “upwards” when planted in the ground. When selecting lily bulbs, be sure to test them for firmness, as any time of freezing of the bulb during transport will make it soft and not usable. Both Asiatic and Oriental Lilies prefer full to partial shade, but are not extremely tolerant of direct sunlight which causes extreme heat. They are hardy in Zones 3 to 8b/9a and can be grown in warmer zones when protected from the sun and heat and given adequate amounts of water. In fact, one of the greatest characteristics about lilies is that they will perennialize even in zones that receive harsh winters! This unfortunately cannot be said for many of the spring-planting bulbs.

These Asiatic Lilies are just one example of the bold colors and exquisite form of these beauties of the summer garden!

Once you have selected a partially shaded to full sun location, be sure the soil is well-drained. If the soil in this area tends to be heavy or contain large amounts of clay, these bulbs will definitely benefit from amending the soil with organic materials such as peat moss and compost manure. If the bulbs are allowed to sit too wet, they will surely rot and turn to mush. Plant the bulbs pointed-side up approximately 4-6″ below the surface of the ground and water well. These bulbs should not need much supplemental watering from you unless a long drought period is experienced. Again, these  bulbs are winter hardy and therefore can be left in the ground year round to come back year after year!

Both Asiatic and Oriental Lilies can also be grown in containers. When planting them in planters or pots, the same general rules of thumb apply. Place the pot in a partial to full sun location, be sure that the soil it contains is well-drained, and plant 4-6″ below the surface of the soil. One thing to keep in mind if you live in a cooler climate (Zones 7 or above): While these bulbs require the cool temperatures of the winter, allowing them to freeze while being exposed in an above-ground container is not advisable. To protect these bulbs from this severe freezing, either move the container into a cool garage, basement, or cellar, or wrap it in a quilt or a good amount of burlap. Once the weather begins to warm in the springtime, either move the container to the outdoors or unwrap the planter.

One of the best-loved and definitely the most fragrant of the summer blooming bulbs, the characteristics of the lily bulbs make then something you definitely won’t want to leave out of your garden. Easy to grow and wonderful for fresh cut arrangements, these bulbs will become one of your favorite of the garden and will come back year after year for you to enjoy!

Until next time,

Have a question about lilies or any other bulb gardening topic? Ask Bridget! Email her at bridget@bulbblog.com! If she features your question in a future post, you’ll receive a Holland Bulb Farms coupon for your next order at Holland Bulb Farms!

Caught in a Dahlia Daydream!

The first type of spring-planted bulb we’re going to focus on is the Dahlia. Known for its vibrant colors and tightly-packed (often large) flower heads, the Dahlia is truly a wonder to behold in the summer garden. In this article, we’ll review the advantages of using these beauties in your garden, as well as different planting techniques and tips for growing them.

The brilliant colors of Dahlias make quite the statement along a pathway!

Classification

Dahlias come in a wide range of shapes, sizes, and colors. The two largest classification of dahlias refer to the petal arrangement. These classifications are single-flowering (typically grow less than 3′ in height and blooms tend to be less than 4″ in diameter) and double-flowering (typically grow in excess of 3′ in height and forms larger blooms). The single-flowering dahlias include the Impression, Single, Orchid-Flowering, and Collarett varieties and tend to be less popular. The double-flowering dahlias consist of the Cactus, Semi-Cactus, Decorative, Dinnerplate, Ball or Pompon, Border, and Novelty varieties. The terms “single-” or “double-”flowering does not refer to how many times the plant will bloom but rather to the bloom structure itself. The single-flowering varieties bloom with just a single row of petals where as the double-flowering will have multiple rows.

Planting Dahlias

A typical dahlia tuber somewhat resembles a disfigured hand with "fingers".

When purchased as bulbs, Dahlias are sold as “tubers”. These tubers often resemble somewhat of a disfigured hand with multiple “fingers” extending downward from the center. The center of this tuber is actually the crown of the stem from the previous year’s growth! When this dahlia begins to sprout after planting, you will be able to see small green shoot protruding from this center crown. Like most bulbs, Dahlias require a well-drained soil (a good mixture of organic material including peat moss and compost manure does wonders) with little clay content. Again, like most bulbs, the Dahlia tubers will surely rot if allowed to sit wet for long spans of time. Select a location that is quite sunny (receives at least 6 hours of sunlight per day) and protected from strong winds. The tubers should be planted “fingers down” in the soil, with the center of the tuber where the stem was the year before just at the soil surface. Depending on the size of the tuber and the specific dahlia variety, spacing should typically range from 18-36″ apart, leaving them enough room to spread and grow properly.

Growing Dahlias

As previously mentioned, Dahlias should be planted during the spring season, anytime after the threat of frost is gone but before the weather gets too warm. For most of the United States, this time period falls between mid-March and mid-May. Dahlias will

Dahlias come in a wide variety of colors and shapes.

begin blooming mid-summer and most will continue on in the late summer and sometimes early fall! Keep the soil moist but definitely not saturated during the summer months. Once the plants reach a foot or so in height, the terminal shoot (or center stem) of the plant can pinched back to encourage branching. For increased flower size, pinch back the lateral (side) flower buds to direct more energy and nutrients to the main flower bud at the end of the stem. Fertilize once per month during the growing season with a water soluble fertilizer (such as Miracle-Grow).

Tuber Storage

Once the plants have completed their growing and blooming cycle, the leaves and flower stems will begin to die back as they enter their dormant stage. Dahlias are hardy in Zones 8, 9, 10, and 11. In these areas, simply cut the stems back to with 1-4″ of the soil surface once they have completely died back. Leave the tuber in the ground for the remaining fall and winter. If located in zones north of Zone 8 (Zones 1-7), you will need to take special care of the tubers in order to protect them from the harsh winter weather. Southern parts of Zone 7 can usually get away with giving the tubers a good drink of water in the fall and placing a think layer of mulch over the area where the tubers are planted. To be really sure, however, the tubers will need to be removed from the soil and overwintered indoors. To do so, follow these simple steps:

1. After the first frost, cut back the foliage and stems to within 1-4″ of the soil surface.
2. Carefully dig out the dahlia tuber, being sure not to sever any of the “fingers”. In order to avoid this, begin by digging at least 12″ away from the center of the plant in all directions.
3. Gently brush off any excess dirt from the tubers and spread them out in a shaded, well-ventilated area for several days. Do NOT leave the tubers in full sun.
4. Pack the tubers upside down in a well-ventilated box, basket, or bag using slightly damp vermiculite, perlite or peat moss, covering the clumps of tubers.
5. Store in temperatures of 35°F to 50°F and protect from hot or cold drafts.
6. Replant in the spring once ground has thawed.

One of the longest summer blooming bulbs, the variety and vibrant colors of Dahlias are something you won’t want to leave out of your summer garden this year. Whether you’re a veteran gardener or just starting to get your hands dirty, these tubers are sure to please without much fuss. Looking great in the garden as well as in a large vase on your dining room table, try some this year and be the talk of the town!

Until next time,

Have a question about dahlias or any other bulb gardening topic? Ask Bridget! Email her at bridget@bulbblog.com! If she features your question in a future post, you’ll receive a Holland Bulb Farms coupon for your next order at Holland Bulb Farms!

Bridget Bulb | Create Your Badge

What’s all this about Spring Planted Bulbs???

When you think of “flower bulbs” what comes to mind? If you’re like most people, you immediate picture fields of tulips and daffodils, or maybe groupings of hyacinth. While this idea of bulbs is definitely a correct one, it is also somewhat limited. Did you realize that there are actually two planting seasons for bulbs? These planting seasons are classified as “fall planted” and “spring planted” bulbs.

Fall bulbs are extremely popular and add great color to the spring garden!

Fall planted bulbs, as I mentioned earlier, are definitely the more well-known bulbs in the group. These include your allium, crocus, daffodils, fritillaria, hyacinth, iris, muscari (grape hyacinth), scilla, and of course, the tulips. These bulbs are typically planted sometime between mid-September and mid-December, depending on  your hardiness zone and then bloom the following spring. Many of these bulbs actually require a chilling period (the winter season) in order to bloom and grow correctly. Therefore, gardeners who live in Zones 2 through 7b/8 can grow these without any special care and leave the bulbs in the ground year round. On the other hand, gardeners who live in warmer climates (Zones 8 through 11) and don’t receive this chilling period naturally outdoors, need to provide these bulbs with the cool period artificially, such as in a refrigerator prior to planting every year.

Dahlias are just one of the many amazing spring planted bulbs that can add great color to your late summer and early fall garden.

Spring planted bulbs are somewhat less well-known in the “bulb world” but are just as valuable to the landscape! These bulbs include anemone, begonias, calla lilies, canna lilies, dahlias, elephant ears, gladiolus, oriental and asiatic lilies, and herbaceous perennials. These bulbs are best planted between early March and late May, again depending on the hardiness zone in which you are located and then bloom in the summer and/or fall. Many of these bulbs (with the exception of oriental/asiatic lilies as well as herbaceous perennials) are not frost hardy and therefore need protection or special care during the winter in Zones 2 through 7b/8. However, the gardeners in Zones 8 through 11 can leave most of these bulbs in the ground year-round without the worry of frost damage.

Since the spring planted bulbs are often overlooked but yet have oh-so-much to offer, I figured it might be good to review them. Over the next couple of weeks, I am going to lead you through the land of the spring planted bulbs. Each article will focus on a different type of spring planted (summer/fall blooming) bulbs, highlighting their great qualities as well as pointing out any maintenance tips that may be important. So follow me on this wonderful journey and open your eyes to this wonderful world of spring planted bulbs!

Until next time,

Have a question about when to plant a certain type of bulb or any other bulb gardening topic? Ask Bridget! Email her at bridget@bulbblog.com! If she features your question in a future post, you’ll receive a Holland Bulb Farms coupon for your next order at Holland Bulb Farms!

Which End is Up?

One of the most popular questions asked by beginners to bulb gardening is, “How do I know which end of the bulb to plant up?”  While the answer to this question can vary based on the type of bulb, generally speaking, the pointed end of the bulb should be planted up (such as with a tulip, daffodil, or hyacinth). Also, if a bulb is smaller than the size of a nickel, there really isn’t a top and bottom.

The good news is that bulbs are quite smart and they’ll figure out which direction to grow, regardless of how they are planted! If a bulb is planted upside down, it will simply take an extra day or two to reach the surface. If after deliberating over which end is the top and you still can’t tell, plant the bulb on its side. Once again, the bulb is smart enough to know which way to grow and will now only have to travel half the distance to the surface.

A few bulbs, especially some of those bulbs planted in spring, have a more definite answer to the question. For instance, begonia tubers have a concave and convex side. In this case, the “hollow” side of tuber should be planted down and the “rounded” side up. Other tuberous spring planted bulbs such as cannas and callas grow long and narrow. These should be planted horizontally 1″ or 2″ below the ground’s surface.

The smooth side of the Elephant Ear bulb is the top and should planted up.

Perhaps one of the most confusing bulbs to know which direction to plant is the Elephant Ear. As those of you who have previously planted one know, an Elephant Ear bulb is very round and has no definite “points”. However, most of these bulbs will have a smooth side as well as a side that contains more bumps and maybe even a few root hairs from the previous growing season. The smooth side of the Elephant Ear is typically the top and should be planted up. Chances

The bumpy side of the Elephant Ear bulb is the bottom and should be planted down.

are, the bumpy side with some possible hairs is slightly flatter than the smooth top side. This is the bottom. Like all bulbs, an Elephant Ear will know which way to grow regardless of how it is planted. When in doubt, plant it on its side! See pictures below for more clarification.

Spring is definitely here and gardeners everywhere are rejoicing! So get out in the garden and get to work! It’ll make you feel good

Easter blessings,

Have a question about which way to plant your bulbs or any other gardening topic? Ask Bridget! Email her at bridget@bulbblog.com! If she features your question in a future post, you’ll receive a coupon for your next order with Holland Bulb Farms!

Oh no! My bulbs are already sprouting! What do I do?

“My daffodils are starting to come up…the problem is that it is starting to snow a bit. Should I cover up the green that has started to sprout? I don’t want them to die!”

~Tammy from Cincinnati, Ohio

Does this sound familiar? At the middle to end of winter, we all hope for those warmer days with bright sunshine. But what about when those days come in the middle of January or February before the spring is really here? Oftentimes, these “touches of spring” can cause premature sprouting of bulbs. The growth starts showing itself above the ground, giving us hope of warmer days to come, only to be smothered with snowflakes a week later. So what is the best plan of action in a situation like this?

Well, my first piece of advice is simple: do not worry too much. If your bulbs are starting to come up early, they are simply reacting to the weather around them, which is out of your control. Think about it this way: if these bulbs where growing in the wild (as they originally did), they would experience this same thing from time to time and would still flourish without the intervention of any human. A little bit of foliage growth during freezing temperatures is not a big deal for these bulbs and should not affect their flowering in the months to come. If this happens in the wintertime, chances are that more cold weather is on its way. In this environment, the foliage will yellow and die back, returning the bulb to its “dormancy” period. This is completely normal and should just be allowed to happen.

Now if the weather continues to stay unseasonably warm, there is a slight chance that the bulbs may begin to produce flower buds. If this happens, your intervention may be necessary in order to protect these buds. Simply find some dry leaves, straw, or even sawdust to cover the sprouting plants and buds. Once the weather begins to warm and the threat of frost is gone, uncover the plants and allow them to continue to grow as normal. If the frost does happen to get to these flower buds, those flower buds will be damaged for the current season. However, this does not necessarily mean that the bulb will not produce additional flower buds at the proper time and then bloom as it normally should. Also, this one-time “frosting” will not have any adverse affect on the bulb’s performance in the years to come.

One more quick thing to keep in mind: sometimes bulbs sprout prematurely simply because the weather is unseasonably warm. However, sometimes there are factors we as gardeners create which can cause this premature sprouting. These factors are planting time and planting depth. Be sure that you wait until the weather is cool enough (consistently in the 40’s at night) in the fall to plant your spring blooming bulbs. Use the thermometer as your gauge and not just the calendar…as we all know, weather can be unpredictable and does not always turn cool at the same time every year. Planting your bulbs too early can cause them to then sprout too early. Also, keep in mind that most bulbs should be planted three times their height in depth. For example, if the bulb you are planting is approximately 2″ tall, then the top of this bulb should be covered with approximately 6″ of soil. Planting bulbs too shallow can cause premature growth as well.

Bulbs tend to take care of themselves...sit back and enjoy them!

Hopefully this article will calm some of your fears regarding your eager spring blooming bulbs! The most important thing to remember is that in most cases, nature can take care of itself. As long as your bulbs are planted correctly, your spring garden will be absolutely beautiful!

Until next time,

Have a question for Bridget? Email her at bridget@bulbblog.com.  If Bridget features your question in a blog post, you’ll receive a $5.00 coupon from one of our sponsors Holland Bulb Farms! Congratulations to Tammy for receiving her coupon!

Want to Grow Bulbs but Confused About When to Plant?

We’ve all seen it: the neighbor’s yard full of brilliant tulips, daffodils, and hyacinth in the spring…or the gorgeous fenceline covered with vibrantly-colored dahlias and lilies in the late summer. Wouldn’t we all love to grow flowers like these? You can! The key is knowing when to plant what and then remembering to do it! So here’s a quick guide to help assist you in planning your garden:

Hardy spring bulbs such as tulips are planted in fall because they need a period of cold in order to stimulate the biochemical process that makes them flower in spring. (Photo: NFBIC)

When to Plant Fall Bulbs?

First of all, bulb planting times are pretty much divided up into two seasons: spring and fall. When an experienced garden refers to “fall bulbs“, they are most likely referring to bulbs which are planted in the fall and therefore bloom in the spring. These bulbs are typically the most familiar and include the following: tulips, daffodils, hyacinth, allium, iris, crocus, fritillaria, and muscari. So what exactly does “fall” mean? Depending upon where you live, fall may start in late September for you or not until mid-November! A good rule of thumb to follow: wait until the nighttime temperatures are consistently between 40°F and 50°F. In most areas, October is a pretty good month to safely plant your fall bulbs. Just be sure to get the bulbs in the ground prior to a severe frost but not too early that they sprout pre-maturely.

Dahlias are great summer bloomers! (Photo: NFBIC)

When to Plant Spring Bulbs?

Conversely, when referring to “spring bulbs“, a gardener is most likely referring to bulbs which are planted in the spring and therefore bloom in the fall. These  bulbs are not planted quite as often as the fall bulbs but are still fairly easy to grow and produce gorgeous blooms! They include the following: begonias, calla lilies, cannas, caladiums, elephant ears, gladiolus, lilies, freesia, cyclamen, and anemone. Again, the season “spring” may vary based upon your Hardiness Zone. Basically, once the ground has thawed, your spring bulbs can be planted. The weather should be consistently above freezing at this point with the chances of a frost slim to none. In most areas, April is a perfect month to do your spring bulb planting.

Hope this information helps clear up any confusion about when to plant the types of bulbs you desire to grow. Now that you know when to plant bulbs, get out there and plant them! Too many times we marvel at the flowers when they are blooming and commit to planting them ourselves, but by the time the correct season comes around to do it, we never do! Do you have a desire for a yard full of tulips? Take a picture of some and hang it on your fridge with a note saying, “Plant fall bulbs in October.” This way you won’t forget how much you love them when the time comes to plant! Are you envious of your neighbor’s Gladioli? Snap a quick shot and place the picture in the pocket of your spring coat to remind you to plant your own! Just wait and see: you, too, will have beautiful gardens!

Until next time,

Have more questions about planting bulbs? Ask Bridget at bridget@bulbblog.com. If Bridget features your question in a future blog, you’ll receive a coupon good on  your next purchase at www.hollandbulbfarms.com!