One of the best bulbs for shaded areas, but unfortunately also one of the most over-looked is the Caladium. Grown primarily for their foliage, these larger-leaved plants will add color to the shaded areas of a landscape all season long with their colorful leaves. A close relative of the sun-loving Elephant Ear, Caladiums grow much shorter, often topping out at 20″ tall, these plants make great borders or accents between shade-loving perennials.

Classification

This F.M. Joyner Caladium will be sure to add delight to the shaded areas of your garden!

Caladiums are commonly categorized into two groups, based on their leaf morphology: Fancy Leaf and Strap Leaf varieties. Fancy leaf caladiums are the more common of the two and have broad heart-shaped or almost arrowhead-shaped leaves. They also generally grow a bit taller than the Strap Leaf type. The Strap Leaf generally have a more pointed, narrow, heart-shaped leave shape and produce a more compact plant.

Growing Caladiums

Again, one of the best plants for shade but also one of the most over-looked bulbs, caladiums definitely deserve a spot in your garden. Their colorful foliage and perfect height make them a “must-have” for the darker areas of the landscape and add a great texture !

Until next time,

Have a question about caladiums or any other bulb gardening topic? Ask Bridget! Email her at bridget@bulbblog.com! If she features your question in a future post, you’ll receive a Holland Bulb Farms coupon for your next order at Holland Bulb Farms!

The next type of spring-planted bulb that we are going to focus on is the Lilies. Perhaps one of the most well-known bulbs and one of the world’s best cutflowers, both Oriental and Asiatic Lilies are known for their spectacular color displays as well as their often intense, sweet fragrance. In this article, we’ll review the advantages of using these beauties in your garden, as well as different planting techniques and tips for growing them.

These Oriental Lilies are a good example of the form and coloration of many of these types of lilies.

Classification

As I mentioned, lilies are often remembered for their pleasant fragrance and their wonderful cutting ability. This can be said about both of the main classifications of lilies, Asiatics and Orientals, although Asiatics will not have as noticeable as a scent. Asiatic Lilies tend to bloom with more solid, bold colors and often have a bit smaller flower than the Orientals. They also bloom earlier than the Oriental Lilies, often one of the first in the summer blooming bulbs category in June to early July. The slightly shorter but more slender stature, as well as the ruffled edges to their petals make the Asiatic Lilies easy to identify. As for the Oriental Lilies, the flowers of these lilies are often speckled and bear multiple colors which fade in and out of the center.  Oriental Lilies also bloom slightly later than the Asiatics, often in mid-July to early-August.

Growing Lilies

Both Asiatic and Oriental Lilies are sold as bulbs and often still bear some of last year’s roots on them when purchased. The end opposite the roots will have a slight point to it, which should be pointed “upwards” when planted in the ground. When selecting lily bulbs, be sure to test them for firmness, as any time of freezing of the bulb during transport will make it soft and not usable. Both Asiatic and Oriental Lilies prefer full to partial shade, but are not extremely tolerant of direct sunlight which causes extreme heat. They are hardy in Zones 3 to 8b/9a and can be grown in warmer zones when protected from the sun and heat and given adequate amounts of water. In fact, one of the greatest characteristics about lilies is that they will perennialize even in zones that receive harsh winters! This unfortunately cannot be said for many of the spring-planting bulbs.

These Asiatic Lilies are just one example of the bold colors and exquisite form of these beauties of the summer garden!

Once you have selected a partially shaded to full sun location, be sure the soil is well-drained. If the soil in this area tends to be heavy or contain large amounts of clay, these bulbs will definitely benefit from amending the soil with organic materials such as peat moss and compost manure. If the bulbs are allowed to sit too wet, they will surely rot and turn to mush. Plant the bulbs pointed-side up approximately 4-6″ below the surface of the ground and water well. These bulbs should not need much supplemental watering from you unless a long drought period is experienced. Again, these  bulbs are winter hardy and therefore can be left in the ground year round to come back year after year!

Both Asiatic and Oriental Lilies can also be grown in containers. When planting them in planters or pots, the same general rules of thumb apply. Place the pot in a partial to full sun location, be sure that the soil it contains is well-drained, and plant 4-6″ below the surface of the soil. One thing to keep in mind if you live in a cooler climate (Zones 7 or above): While these bulbs require the cool temperatures of the winter, allowing them to freeze while being exposed in an above-ground container is not advisable. To protect these bulbs from this severe freezing, either move the container into a cool garage, basement, or cellar, or wrap it in a quilt or a good amount of burlap. Once the weather begins to warm in the springtime, either move the container to the outdoors or unwrap the planter.

One of the best-loved and definitely the most fragrant of the summer blooming bulbs, the characteristics of the lily bulbs make then something you definitely won’t want to leave out of your garden. Easy to grow and wonderful for fresh cut arrangements, these bulbs will become one of your favorite of the garden and will come back year after year for you to enjoy!

Until next time,

Have a question about lilies or any other bulb gardening topic? Ask Bridget! Email her at bridget@bulbblog.com! If she features your question in a future post, you’ll receive a Holland Bulb Farms coupon for your next order at Holland Bulb Farms!

The next type of spring-planted bulbs we’re going to focus on is the Tuberous Begonia. Known for their wonderful ability to grow in the shade, small habit and lush green foliage, these tubers make great addition to shady gardens and borders. In this article, we’ll review the advantages of using these beauties in your garden, as well as different planting techniques and tips for growing them.

Classification

Begonias work wonderfully along walkways and as borders to other shaded gardens.

Tuberous Begonias can typically be grouped into three types: Begonia tuberhybridia, Begonia multiflora, and Begonia pendula. The Begonia tuberhybridia types are the most commonly grown and well-known and include the Double Begonias, Ruffled Begonias, Roseform Begonias, and Picotee Begonias. The Begonia multiflora variety include the Multiple Flowering varieties with smaller, numerous blooms. The Begonia pendula are the Hanging Basket-type of begonias which trail over the edges of planters and pots. Oftentimes, the novice gardener will confuse these tuberous begonias with wax begonias, which are grown more as an annual or indoor plants and not from a tuber (or bulb).

Tubers for all three types of these begonias are typically available for purchase in late winter/early spring. They look like small brown lumps with a depression on one side. When choosing the tubers, be sure to check for firmness and look for those with tiny sprouts on the upper, concave surfaces. This is a good sign that they are healthy and ready to begin growing!

Growing Begonias

As previously mentioned, Begonias should be planted during the spring season, anytime after the threat of frost is gone but before the weather gets too warm. For most of the United States, this time period falls between mid-March and mid-May. Maybe begonia growers located in cooler climates, choose to start their begonias early (middle to end of February) indoors to give them a head start on the growing season. Many bulb companies will over this “early delivery” as on option on this partcular type of spring-planted bulb. (For more detailed information on just how to go about starting these tubers indoors, be sure to check out last year’s blog article here: http://www.bulbblog.com/start-begonias-indoors/)

This Sunrise Scentiment Begonia is of the "ruffled" type and is not only pleasing to look at, but also provides a wonderful fragrance!

Begonias will begin blooming mid-summer and will continue until frost! Begonias thrive in partial to full shade and need to be protected from hot sun and drying winds. The key to successfully growing begonias is to make sure the soild is well-drained. Begonia tubers are extremely susceptible to rot and therefore do not like any excess moisture. However, be sure to not let the soil dry out between waterings during the summer months. Fertilize once per month during the growing season with a water soluble fertilizer (such as Miracle-Grow).Always water the soil around the plants rather than the plants themselves whenever possible to avoid the forming of fungus or mildew on the foliage. The tubers should be planted hollow side up and covered with only 1/2 to 1″ of soil. Planting them too deep will only encourage rotting. Water well after planting to “wake up” the tubers but then not again until you see growth, which usually takes 4-6 weeks.

For aesthetic reasons, pink off extra long stems as the plants grow. This will encourage blooming and keep your plants from looking “leggy”. When growing the hanging basket-type, make sure they have lots of branches to cascade from their plants by pinching out the primary growing tip when the plant is 2″ tall. Also, deadhead your begonias often by removing wild=ted leaves and flowers. This will retain the “clean” look of the plants and will also encourage repeat blooming throughout the season.

Tuber Storage

Once the plants have completed their growing and blooming cycle, the leaves and flower stems will begin to die back as they enter their dormant stage. Begonias are hardy in Zones 8, 9, and 10. In these areas, simply cut the stems back to within 1-4″ of the soil surface once they have completely died back. Leave the tuber in the ground for the remaining fall and winter. If located in zones north of Zone 8 (Zones 1-7), you will need to take special care of the tubers in order to protect them from the harsh winter weather. Southern parts of Zone 7 can usually get away with giving the tubers a good drink of water in the fall and placing a think layer of mulch over the area where the tubers are planted. To be really sure, however, the tubers will need to be removed from the soil and overwintered indoors. To do so, follow these simple steps:

1. Since begonia tubers tend to be susceptible to rot, it is often a good idea to bring them indoors just before the first frost. If grown in movable planters, bring the planters indoors and gradually begin with-holding water. Once the leaves begin to die and wilt, remove the stems and leaves carefully from the tubers.
2. If your tubers are planted outside in the garden, simply dig them up (plant and bulb together) and bring them indoors prior to the first frost. The foliage will begin dying back quickly and can then be removed.
3. Gently brush off any excess dirt from the tubers and place them in a tray or pot with dry sand, peat moss, or vermiculite.
4. Store them in a cool, well-ventilated, frost-free area such as a cellar or garage over winter. A temperature of 45-55°F is ideal.
5. Replant in the spring once ground has thawed!

Those who grow Begonia tubers are some of the most passionate gardeners on earth…and it’s easy to see why! Looking absolutely gorgeous with their bright, large blooms and lush green foliage, it’s hard to believe these plants don’t need much sunlight! Whether you’re a “begonia growing veteran” or have never tried them before, be sure to make your selections early this year and get them growing as soon as possible!

Until next time,

Have a question about begonias or any other bulb gardening topic? Ask Bridget! Email her at bridget@bulbblog.com! If she features your question in a future post, you’ll receive a Holland Bulb Farms coupon for your next order at Holland Bulb Farms!

The first type of spring-planted bulb we’re going to focus on is the Dahlia. Known for its vibrant colors and tightly-packed (often large) flower heads, the Dahlia is truly a wonder to behold in the summer garden. In this article, we’ll review the advantages of using these beauties in your garden, as well as different planting techniques and tips for growing them.

The brilliant colors of Dahlias make quite the statement along a pathway!

Classification

Dahlias come in a wide range of shapes, sizes, and colors. The two largest classification of dahlias refer to the petal arrangement. These classifications are single-flowering (typically grow less than 3′ in height and blooms tend to be less than 4″ in diameter) and double-flowering (typically grow in excess of 3′ in height and forms larger blooms). The single-flowering dahlias include the Impression, Single, Orchid-Flowering, and Collarett varieties and tend to be less popular. The double-flowering dahlias consist of the Cactus, Semi-Cactus, Decorative, Dinnerplate, Ball or Pompon, Border, and Novelty varieties. The terms “single-” or “double-”flowering does not refer to how many times the plant will bloom but rather to the bloom structure itself. The single-flowering varieties bloom with just a single row of petals where as the double-flowering will have multiple rows.

Planting Dahlias

A typical dahlia tuber somewhat resembles a disfigured hand with "fingers".

When purchased as bulbs, Dahlias are sold as “tubers”. These tubers often resemble somewhat of a disfigured hand with multiple “fingers” extending downward from the center. The center of this tuber is actually the crown of the stem from the previous year’s growth! When this dahlia begins to sprout after planting, you will be able to see small green shoot protruding from this center crown. Like most bulbs, Dahlias require a well-drained soil (a good mixture of organic material including peat moss and compost manure does wonders) with little clay content. Again, like most bulbs, the Dahlia tubers will surely rot if allowed to sit wet for long spans of time. Select a location that is quite sunny (receives at least 6 hours of sunlight per day) and protected from strong winds. The tubers should be planted “fingers down” in the soil, with the center of the tuber where the stem was the year before just at the soil surface. Depending on the size of the tuber and the specific dahlia variety, spacing should typically range from 18-36″ apart, leaving them enough room to spread and grow properly.

Growing Dahlias

As previously mentioned, Dahlias should be planted during the spring season, anytime after the threat of frost is gone but before the weather gets too warm. For most of the United States, this time period falls between mid-March and mid-May. Dahlias will

Dahlias come in a wide variety of colors and shapes.

begin blooming mid-summer and most will continue on in the late summer and sometimes early fall! Keep the soil moist but definitely not saturated during the summer months. Once the plants reach a foot or so in height, the terminal shoot (or center stem) of the plant can pinched back to encourage branching. For increased flower size, pinch back the lateral (side) flower buds to direct more energy and nutrients to the main flower bud at the end of the stem. Fertilize once per month during the growing season with a water soluble fertilizer (such as Miracle-Grow).

Tuber Storage

Once the plants have completed their growing and blooming cycle, the leaves and flower stems will begin to die back as they enter their dormant stage. Dahlias are hardy in Zones 8, 9, 10, and 11. In these areas, simply cut the stems back to with 1-4″ of the soil surface once they have completely died back. Leave the tuber in the ground for the remaining fall and winter. If located in zones north of Zone 8 (Zones 1-7), you will need to take special care of the tubers in order to protect them from the harsh winter weather. Southern parts of Zone 7 can usually get away with giving the tubers a good drink of water in the fall and placing a think layer of mulch over the area where the tubers are planted. To be really sure, however, the tubers will need to be removed from the soil and overwintered indoors. To do so, follow these simple steps:

1. After the first frost, cut back the foliage and stems to within 1-4″ of the soil surface.
2. Carefully dig out the dahlia tuber, being sure not to sever any of the “fingers”. In order to avoid this, begin by digging at least 12″ away from the center of the plant in all directions.
3. Gently brush off any excess dirt from the tubers and spread them out in a shaded, well-ventilated area for several days. Do NOT leave the tubers in full sun.
4. Pack the tubers upside down in a well-ventilated box, basket, or bag using slightly damp vermiculite, perlite or peat moss, covering the clumps of tubers.
5. Store in temperatures of 35°F to 50°F and protect from hot or cold drafts.
6. Replant in the spring once ground has thawed.

One of the longest summer blooming bulbs, the variety and vibrant colors of Dahlias are something you won’t want to leave out of your summer garden this year. Whether you’re a veteran gardener or just starting to get your hands dirty, these tubers are sure to please without much fuss. Looking great in the garden as well as in a large vase on your dining room table, try some this year and be the talk of the town!

Until next time,

Have a question about dahlias or any other bulb gardening topic? Ask Bridget! Email her at bridget@bulbblog.com! If she features your question in a future post, you’ll receive a Holland Bulb Farms coupon for your next order at Holland Bulb Farms!

Bridget Bulb | Create Your Badge

When you think of “flower bulbs” what comes to mind? If you’re like most people, you immediate picture fields of tulips and daffodils, or maybe groupings of hyacinth. While this idea of bulbs is definitely a correct one, it is also somewhat limited. Did you realize that there are actually two planting seasons for bulbs? These planting seasons are classified as “fall planted” and “spring planted” bulbs.

Fall bulbs are extremely popular and add great color to the spring garden!

Fall planted bulbs, as I mentioned earlier, are definitely the more well-known bulbs in the group. These include your allium, crocus, daffodils, fritillaria, hyacinth, iris, muscari (grape hyacinth), scilla, and of course, the tulips. These bulbs are typically planted sometime between mid-September and mid-December, depending on  your hardiness zone and then bloom the following spring. Many of these bulbs actually require a chilling period (the winter season) in order to bloom and grow correctly. Therefore, gardeners who live in Zones 2 through 7b/8 can grow these without any special care and leave the bulbs in the ground year round. On the other hand, gardeners who live in warmer climates (Zones 8 through 11) and don’t receive this chilling period naturally outdoors, need to provide these bulbs with the cool period artificially, such as in a refrigerator prior to planting every year.

Dahlias are just one of the many amazing spring planted bulbs that can add great color to your late summer and early fall garden.

Spring planted bulbs are somewhat less well-known in the “bulb world” but are just as valuable to the landscape! These bulbs include anemone, begonias, calla lilies, canna lilies, dahlias, elephant ears, gladiolus, oriental and asiatic lilies, and herbaceous perennials. These bulbs are best planted between early March and late May, again depending on the hardiness zone in which you are located and then bloom in the summer and/or fall. Many of these bulbs (with the exception of oriental/asiatic lilies as well as herbaceous perennials) are not frost hardy and therefore need protection or special care during the winter in Zones 2 through 7b/8. However, the gardeners in Zones 8 through 11 can leave most of these bulbs in the ground year-round without the worry of frost damage.

Since the spring planted bulbs are often overlooked but yet have oh-so-much to offer, I figured it might be good to review them. Over the next couple of weeks, I am going to lead you through the land of the spring planted bulbs. Each article will focus on a different type of spring planted (summer/fall blooming) bulbs, highlighting their great qualities as well as pointing out any maintenance tips that may be important. So follow me on this wonderful journey and open your eyes to this wonderful world of spring planted bulbs!

Until next time,

Have a question about when to plant a certain type of bulb or any other bulb gardening topic? Ask Bridget! Email her at bridget@bulbblog.com! If she features your question in a future post, you’ll receive a Holland Bulb Farms coupon for your next order at Holland Bulb Farms!

Beat the Winter Duldrums: Start Planning your Summer Garden TODAY!

For those of us who live in “cold winter” areas, as Begonia and I do, right about now the snow is beginning to “lose its luster”. The holidays are over with nothing left to look forward to but another several months of wet boots, red noses, and frozen car doors. So why not bring the spring and summer INTO your home by starting your “summer dreaming” a little early this year?!

Did you realize that many online as well as catalog bulb and perennial companies have already started accepting pre-orders for spring planted items, such as cannas, callas, dahlias, and assorted perennials? You can be far ahead of the game just by beginning to plan now and making your selections before the spring rush begins.

So you may be wondering: how do I even begin to decide what I want to plant this year? Even though this may seem like a daunting task, planning your garden should be one of the most fun and enjoyable things you do! Make it easy on yourself this year by following these easy steps:

1. Decide on a location. Pick a spot of your yard that you feel needs “extra attention”. Or perhaps for you it’s simply your favorite raised planter or decorative container. Have a specific project, such as a flowerbed around your mailbox or in that shaded part of your already existing garden? Perhaps this is the year you want to tackle it! Whatever you do, don’t “over-commit” yourself. Doing so will only leave you tired and frustrated. Have the courage to a pick a slightly smaller project and do it WELL rather than taking on more than you can handle and leaving yourself disappointed by the results.
   

   Let your imagination bring the warm weather to you even on the coldest day!

2. Start collecting ideas. Collect all of the information you can find: garden magazines, website and blog articles, plant catalogs, and web addresses to some of your favorite plant sources. When you see something you like, tear it out or print it off and begin a “summer dreaming” journal. Try not to get too hung up on plant height, color, light requirements, etc. at first. These will only limit your creativity.
3. Look through your treasures. Once you feel you have collected a good amount of information, sit down with your journal and sort through what you have found. Can you find any common themes in the plants/ideas you’ve selected (formal garden settings, color patterns, exotic-looking plants?). Begin to think about these ideas in relation to the location you had pre-determined to “fix-up” this year. Will they work here? Does the area get enough sunlight or too much? Do the colors go together or do they clash?
4. Begin building the dream. Now that the information you have collected has been somewhat organized, decide which direction you will take and separate the plants/ideas that will be included this season. Do NOT throw the rest of it away! Keep all of these ideas in a folder to re-visit at a later time and don’t EVER tell yourself “no” to an idea you truly love. Yes, it may be true that you don’t have the money to have an 8 foot tall marble fountain in the middle of your backyard surrounded by 5′ cannas. But that doesn’t mean you can’t someday do something very similar, just on a smaller scale. Again, it may be true that you just don’t have enough sunlight in your backyard to grow the climbing wisteria vine  you’ve always dreamed of but that doesn’t mean that there aren’t other climbing perennials which would work wonderfully in a more shaded landscape and provide just the same effect.
5. Go shopping! Join newsletters and email lists to your favorite websites and suppliers and begin watching for coupons. Start finding specific sources for your purchases and don’t wait too long to place your order. Once the weather starts to warm up, there will be many gardeners thinking about making these purchases and you won’t want to get left out in the cold

From now on, whenever the winter rain, sleet, or snow starts to get you down, head to your favorite garden website or magazine and continue your “summer dreaming”. It won’t be long before it’s here and you want to be ready for it, don’t you???

Until next time,

Have a question about your “summer dreaming” or any other bulb gardening topic? Ask Bridget! Email her at bridget@bulbblog.com! If she features your question in a future post, you’ll receive a Holland Bulb Farms coupon for your next order at Holland Bulb Farms!

In perusing my favorite gardening websites the other day, I came across some really cool, different looking plants such as the Purple Fritillaria and the Hair Allium. These guys were super unique and I had to find a place for them in my garden. If you’re anything like me,

The repeating red hues of this garden help to unify the landscape in spite of the many different types of plants used.

you love plants. You love getting creative and experimenting with new plants and bulbs that add a different twist to your garden and make it stand out from all the rest.

While creativity and boldness are great attributes of wonderful gardeners, sometimes this “all caution to the wind” approach can leave a garden looking random and not extremely pleasing to the eye. While each individual plant was selected for its unique and excellent characteristics, planting too many different varieties and not enough of each can create more of a jumbled mess then anything else. Does this mean you have to give up your love for trying new things and being adventurous? Most definitely not! By paying attention to the following attributes while selecting your plants, you can create a garden space that is not only interesting but also pulls the eye in with common characteristics which will lead the on-looker visually through the garden:

Color: Most everyone has at least two or three colors which they find most pleasing in the the landscape. So you want to try allium and coneflowers? Why not stick within the same “color palette” rather than trying to do too much with a little space? This can be done with many different plants. If you’re in love with daffodils but want to avoid the “one of everything” look, try repeating the yellow of the center of the daffodil in the petals of another. By playing off some of the insignificant colors of one flower, you can make a much more “connected” and cohesive look with all of the other flowers.

Texture: So you’re in love with ornamental grasses but don’t want to stick to just one variety. That’s fine! Plant clusters of like-varieties throughout your garden space to carry on the theme. If you’re big into succulents but still want variety and interest, couple them with

The pure yellow daffodils intermixed with the others helps to bring out the yellow centers of the white blooms.

other plants of the same texture like Hens and Chicks or different varieties of the sedum. The same can be true of bulbs. If you love the thin, elegant foliage of the dutch iris, planting it among another thin-leafed perennial like daylilies can help blend the two plant types together.

If you’ve found something you like in the garden, stick with it! Want to add variety? Go right ahead! Just remember to try to avoid the “hodge podge” look by playing off some of the key elements. This will add harmony to your landscape and be very pleasing to eyes of all who pass by!

Until next time,

Have a question about which fall planted bulbs to plant in your garden or any other bulb gardening topic? Ask Bridget! Email her at bridget@bulbblog.com! If she features your question in a future post, you’ll receive a Holland Bulb Farms coupon for your next order with Holland Bulb Farms!

An old-time favorite but still a very frequently used perennial, the Iris is truly timeless. Whether it be a the romantic, frilly Beardeds or the more modern, chic Dutch Iris, both add elements to the garden which are unmatched among other perennials. August is often referred to as “Bearded Iris Month” simply because bearded iris like to be planted in late August or early in September for best results. Today I thought I’d just give a general overview of both for those readers who may be slightly unfamiliar with the difference or maybe just wanted their memory refreshed.

Bearded Iris

Typically sold as “rhizomes”, Bearded Iris (or sometimes called German Iris) are the elegant queens of the late spring

This Red at Night Bearded Iris is one of the most popular!

garden. The rhizomes are planted just below the soils surface, with little to almost no soil cover. The roots grow out of the bottom of this rhizome, creating a solid foundation for which the plant to grow. These Bearded Iris typically produce blooms made up of standards (the petals which stand upright) and falls (the petals which point downwards). The falls are covered with a soft “fuzz”, creating the beard which gives the iris its name! These rhizomes are best planted during the fall season but be sure to give them plenty of time to become established prior to any frost. They are great naturalizers (meaning they multiply quickly) and are reliably perennial. If you’re interested in more than a one time bloom, check out some of the Reblooming Bearded Iris!

Dutch Iris

Dutch Iris, although similar to Bearded Iris in bloom shape, have many of

This Orental Beauty Dutch Iris boast of bi-colored blooms of yellow and lavendar.

their own characteristics which make them highly sought after. Their extremely narrow, long leaves make elegant additions to cut flower arrangements and the blooms tend to last an extremely long time making them a florists’ favorite! Dutch Iris come in a variety of blues, yellows, purples, and white. If you’re looking for a more unique, later spring-blooming boarded plant, try some of the dwarf varieties like the Cantab or  the Danford Dwarf Dutch Iris!

So do yourself a favor this year and plan for fresh cutflowers out of your own garden next spring! Plant Iris SOON! And if you need some help choosing, try checking out some great Bearded Iris Collections!

Until next time,

Have a question about iris or any other bulb gardening topic? Ask Bridget! Email her at bridget@bulbblog.com! If she features your question in a future post, you’ll receive a Holland Bulb Farms coupon for your next order with Holland Bulb Farms!

Spring has almost come and gone in what seems like the blink of an eye! Now that the season is drawing to a close, I thought it might be a good time to review some of my “garden favorites” for all of the blog readers out there. After all, it’s never too early to start planning your spring garden for next year, considering these bulbs will need to get in the ground shortly after the summer is over!

Drumstick Allium (Allium sphaerocephalum ‘Drumstick’)

These late spring bloomers are truly versatile! They produce 1-1/2″ diameter spherical blooms atop 24″ flower stems which age from green to a brilliant burgundy color. Plant them among a lower plant and watch them “hover” above. They look amazing in fresh flower arrangements and dry perfectly. They’re also deer resistant!

Minnow Daffodil  (Narcissus tazetta ‘Minnow’)

This dwarf rock garden daffodil could hardly be any sweeter in its demeanor–or its scent! This little one only reaches 6″ tall and produces a beautiful fragrance which can fill your entire landscape when used in mass plantings. This has definitely become a mainstay for me in my mid-spring garden borders as well as my bud vases located around my house! Also won’t be eaten by deer, squirrels, or other pesky outdoor creatures…

Jan Bos Hyacinth (Hyacinth orientalis ‘Jan Bos’)

Everyone’s familiar with the wonderful fragrance, long bloom time, and full dense flowers of the hyacinth, but have you ever seen one this color? A photograph hardly does this gem justice with its absolutely striking hue of deep magenta. Growing 12-16″ tall, this is a great “mid-height” plant to fill between a short border and dramatic tall background. And don’t forget: the rodents and deer won’t bother these!

Bicolor Grape Hyacinth (Muscari latifolium)

What a fun new take on an old classic! This grape hyacinth is like no other with its “two-shade” bloom! The deeper violet contrasts nicely with the lighter blue while still retaining the familiar form and scent of the original. Use these little beauties in the border, in between other spring bloomers for added interest, or take advantage of their strong desire to naturalize and plant them among your lawn!

Lambada Fringed Tulip (Tulipa ‘Lambada’)

Perhaps the most impressive bulb I grew this year was this one: the Lambada Fringed Tulip. Never was I astounded by a tulip as I was by this one! The outer light peach colored petals transition to a brilliant tangerine orange-yellow at the fringed edges! This late spring bloomer will create a marvelous end to the season and make you think of the warm summer days ahead!

This is just a sampling of what I fell in love with this year in my garden. Check these all out by clicking on the photographs and start planning your fall garden TODAY! I can guarantee you, these great selections won’t last long!

Until next time,

Have a question about which fall planted bulbs to plant in your garden or any other bulb gardening topic? Ask Bridget! Email her at bridget@bulbblog.com! If she features your question in a future post, you’ll receive a Holland Bulb Farms coupon for your next order with Holland Bulb Farms!

So the weather is starting to get warmer and we are all ready for the summer months that are in the not-too-distant future, right? And I realize that fall may be the last thing you want to think about. However, in order to have a beautiful spring garden of tulips, daffodils, crocus, allium, and hyacinth, you need to start thinking about what you’re going to plant in fall NOW! After all, once the time to plant these bulbs come around, the blooms will be long gone and furthest from your mind. So why not select your bulbs for fall now!

A mixture of textures (such as daffodils and tulips) can make for professional looking floral arrangements.

The majority of gardeners plan their garden around one sole purpose: they want to have a yard that’s in bloom for a long time that looks great year round. While this is a very logical goal, you can get more out of your garden if you consider another factor when planning for the colors and types of flowers your garden will include: cutflowers! Who wouldn’t love to have a vase (or maybe two or three) of fresh cutflowers in their house at all times? Now think about how even more lovely it would be if they were flowers which you had grown yourself in your own yard!

If you’re somewhat of an experienced gardener, you probably already plan your garden so that the bloom time is spread out over as long of a period of time as possible, correct? But what about taking into consideration plants and flowers that can be used for cutting over a long period of time? By paying special attention to colors and textures that will look good in a vase together that are also in bloom at the same time, you can also lengthen the period of time you can enjoy these fresh cut flowers in your home!

Two tips when cutting flowers out of the garden: First, be sure to take flowers from various places within your yard…you should not even be able to notice any

Why not plan your garden for gorgerous bouquets?

are missing once you’re done And secondly, always try to cut back to another node or bud (the place where the next leaf comes out of the stem) or to the ground.  By doing so, you will help to disguise the stems which have been cut and still give your garden a “natural” look.

So go out today and bring a piece of your garden indoors!

Until next time,

Have a question about which bulbs work best for cutflowers or any other gardening topic? Ask Bridget! Email her at bridget@bulbblog.com! If she features your question in a future post, you’ll receive a Holland Bulb Farms coupon for your next order with Holland Bulb Farms!

]]> http://www.bulbblog.com/cutflowers-from-bulbs/feed/ 0 http://www.bulbblog.com/photographing-with-flowers/ http://www.bulbblog.com/photographing-with-flowers/#comments Sun, 17 May 2009 20:19:40 +0000 Bridget http://www.bulbblog.com/?p=578 HEY! That’s MY yard!

Our breezeway entrance, beginning to show life this spring!

My husband and I are relatively new in our neighborhood and have not yet had a chance to get acquainted with our neighbors. When we first moved into our house at the end of last fall, the landscape was quite stark, like a blank canvas just waiting for the artist’s touch. In the small amount of time I had before the snow fell,  I planted over 150 daffodil and tulip bulbs in the front yard. So you can imagine how thrilled I was this spring when the foliage began peeking out of the soil and continued to produce beautiful blooms. Did I mention that I also realized not one other house on our street had a yard as beautiful as ours???

Ever since the first sign of growth, my husband and I have been “charting” the plants’ progress. In fact, one day he said to me, “Bridget, I swear that I can actually see those tulips growing taller–they seem to be growing so fast!” It made me happy to have my husband as excited as I was at the success of the spring blooming bulbs I had planted.

The beginning of spring in the front of our house!

For a few weeks now, we’ve enjoyed the tulip and daffodil blooms and have made notes of which ones bloomed first, second, third, and so on. It is always interesting to me to observe how a garden can “evolve” over the course of a month or two while one plant finishes flowering and the next one takes over. And as it turns out, I wasn’t the only one admiring my spring blooms…

The tulips and daffodils brightening the walkway to our breezeway entrance.

This past weekend, I was dusting our living room (one of the worst house chores there is) and I happened to glance out our front bay window. I did a double take as I realized a young teenage couple, dressed to the nines standing in front of my flowerbed! As I took in the situation, I also noticed a corsage and boutineer, complete with a proud mother snapping photographs of the “prom-ready” couple! At first I couldn’t help but think, “The nerve! This is MY yard and these are MY flowers!” But just as I was about to run out into my front yard waving a baseball bat, I suddenly felt flattered. These neighbors of mine, whom I had never met before, had thought enough of MY flowers to want them in their picture! What better compliment could a gardener receive?!

The front flowerbed near to full bloom...and also the backdrop to a couple's pre-prom photograph

Now I’m not certain that I would ever have the guts to pose for a picture five feet in front of a house owned by someone I had never met, but the experience definitely made me feel good. After all, do we not plant flowers to beautify our surroundings? I like to think that my little piece of the earth makes it a nicer place to live. And for this young prom couple, it made a beautiful picture which will be viewed in photo albums long after the flowers fade.

Until next time,

Have a question about which bulbs are the most photogenic or any other gardening topic? Ask Bridget! Email her at bridget@bulbblog.com! If she features your question in a future post, you’ll receive a Holland Bulb Farms coupon for your next order with Holland Bulb Farms!

One of the most popular questions asked by beginners to bulb gardening is, “How do I know which end of the bulb to plant up?”  While the answer to this question can vary based on the type of bulb, generally speaking, the pointed end of the bulb should be planted up (such as with a tulip, daffodil, or hyacinth). Also, if a bulb is smaller than the size of a nickel, there really isn’t a top and bottom.

The good news is that bulbs are quite smart and they’ll figure out which direction to grow, regardless of how they are planted! If a bulb is planted upside down, it will simply take an extra day or two to reach the surface. If after deliberating over which end is the top and you still can’t tell, plant the bulb on its side. Once again, the bulb is smart enough to know which way to grow and will now only have to travel half the distance to the surface.

A few bulbs, especially some of those bulbs planted in spring, have a more definite answer to the question. For instance, begonia tubers have a concave and convex side. In this case, the “hollow” side of tuber should be planted down and the “rounded” side up. Other tuberous spring planted bulbs such as cannas and callas grow long and narrow. These should be planted horizontally 1″ or 2″ below the ground’s surface.

The smooth side of the Elephant Ear bulb is the top and should planted up.

Perhaps one of the most confusing bulbs to know which direction to plant is the Elephant Ear. As those of you who have previously planted one know, an Elephant Ear bulb is very round and has no definite “points”. However, most of these bulbs will have a smooth side as well as a side that contains more bumps and maybe even a few root hairs from the previous growing season. The smooth side of the Elephant Ear is typically the top and should be planted up. Chances

The bumpy side of the Elephant Ear bulb is the bottom and should be planted down.

are, the bumpy side with some possible hairs is slightly flatter than the smooth top side. This is the bottom. Like all bulbs, an Elephant Ear will know which way to grow regardless of how it is planted. When in doubt, plant it on its side! See pictures below for more clarification.

Spring is definitely here and gardeners everywhere are rejoicing! So get out in the garden and get to work! It’ll make you feel good

Easter blessings,

Have a question about which way to plant your bulbs or any other gardening topic? Ask Bridget! Email her at bridget@bulbblog.com! If she features your question in a future post, you’ll receive a coupon for your next order with Holland Bulb Farms!

This ‘F.M. Joyner’ Caladium is a great spring planted bulb for a garden which gets large amounts of shade in the summer. 

Spring or Fall Bulbs: Who Says You Have to Choose?

“I had planted fall bulbs in a small garden area and now I am wondering if I am able to plant Spring bulbs in the same garden without hurting the daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, and crocus?”

~Paula

One of my readers, Paula, asked the above question in a recent email. And this is how I answered: ABSOLUTELY! Making use of the same garden space to plant both summer-/fall-blooming and spring-blooming bulbs is a great use of different plants for year round color! Planting dahlias and gladiolus next to daffodils and tulips is not only a good idea, it is a necessity for an “all bulb garden”. Here are three quick tips when planning a garden of this kind:

1. Be sure you know where your previously planted bulbs are located, or be prepared to accidentally dig some up . The best course of action is to plant your fall planted bulbs FIRST, and then plant your spring planted bulbs while your spring bloomers are actively growing. This way you will know exactly where the other bulbs are planted. If this does not work for you, simply mark the plants with small popsicle sticks while they are growing. This will tell you approximately where not to dig when you go to plant your bulbs for the next season.
2. If you do accidentally unearth a bulb which you did not intend to, simply re-plant it at the appropriate depth. Chances are, it will still come up at the correct time if the roots were not badly damaged.
3. Consider the sunlight conditions in the designated area carefully when selecting your bulbs. Just because tulips (which like full sun) do well in your flowerbed, does not necessarily mean that canna lilies (which also require full sun) will do well. Keep in mind that a place in your yard which receives full sun in the early spring time, may not receive this much sun once all of the trees have leafed out. In some cases, you may need to select full sun bulbs for planting in the fall but ones which can withstand partial shade in the summer months (which are planted in the spring).

So go for it! Be daring and plant both types of bulbs in the same garden! I promise: they’ll get along just fine And congratulations to Paula for having her question featured in this post! She now has an extra $5.00 to spend on her spring planted bulbs from Holland Bulb Farms!

Spring is here!

Until next time,

Got a gardening question and need some help? Why not ask Bridget?! Send your question to bridget@bulbblog.com. If she features your question in a blog post, you’ll receive a coupon for $5.00 off your next order with Holland Bulb Farms!

“If we had no winter, the spring would not be so pleasant; if we did not sometimes taste of adversity, prosperity would not be so welcome.”

~Anne Bradstreet

“My daffodils are starting to come up…the problem is that it is starting to snow a bit. Should I cover up the green that has started to sprout? I don’t want them to die!”

~Tammy from Cincinnati, Ohio

Does this sound familiar? At the middle to end of winter, we all hope for those warmer days with bright sunshine. But what about when those days come in the middle of January or February before the spring is really here? Oftentimes, these “touches of spring” can cause premature sprouting of bulbs. The growth starts showing itself above the ground, giving us hope of warmer days to come, only to be smothered with snowflakes a week later. So what is the best plan of action in a situation like this?

Well, my first piece of advice is simple: do not worry too much. If your bulbs are starting to come up early, they are simply reacting to the weather around them, which is out of your control. Think about it this way: if these bulbs where growing in the wild (as they originally did), they would experience this same thing from time to time and would still flourish without the intervention of any human. A little bit of foliage growth during freezing temperatures is not a big deal for these bulbs and should not affect their flowering in the months to come. If this happens in the wintertime, chances are that more cold weather is on its way. In this environment, the foliage will yellow and die back, returning the bulb to its “dormancy” period. This is completely normal and should just be allowed to happen.

Now if the weather continues to stay unseasonably warm, there is a slight chance that the bulbs may begin to produce flower buds. If this happens, your intervention may be necessary in order to protect these buds. Simply find some dry leaves, straw, or even sawdust to cover the sprouting plants and buds. Once the weather begins to warm and the threat of frost is gone, uncover the plants and allow them to continue to grow as normal. If the frost does happen to get to these flower buds, those flower buds will be damaged for the current season. However, this does not necessarily mean that the bulb will not produce additional flower buds at the proper time and then bloom as it normally should. Also, this one-time “frosting” will not have any adverse affect on the bulb’s performance in the years to come.

One more quick thing to keep in mind: sometimes bulbs sprout prematurely simply because the weather is unseasonably warm. However, sometimes there are factors we as gardeners create which can cause this premature sprouting. These factors are planting time and planting depth. Be sure that you wait until the weather is cool enough (consistently in the 40’s at night) in the fall to plant your spring blooming bulbs. Use the thermometer as your gauge and not just the calendar…as we all know, weather can be unpredictable and does not always turn cool at the same time every year. Planting your bulbs too early can cause them to then sprout too early. Also, keep in mind that most bulbs should be planted three times their height in depth. For example, if the bulb you are planting is approximately 2″ tall, then the top of this bulb should be covered with approximately 6″ of soil. Planting bulbs too shallow can cause premature growth as well.

Bulbs tend to take care of themselves...sit back and enjoy them!

Hopefully this article will calm some of your fears regarding your eager spring blooming bulbs! The most important thing to remember is that in most cases, nature can take care of itself. As long as your bulbs are planted correctly, your spring garden will be absolutely beautiful!

Until next time,

Have a question for Bridget? Email her at bridget@bulbblog.com.  If Bridget features your question in a blog post, you’ll receive a $5.00 coupon from one of our sponsors Holland Bulb Farms! Congratulations to Tammy for receiving her coupon!

This pink dahlia is a sure sign the summer is here!

“I know you’re not supposed to plant fall bulbs in the spring but we were hit with hard winter weather rather early this year and I am left with at least 100 tulip and daffodil bulbs that were unable to get planted. Would they survive to bloom next year if I were to plant them now?”

~Dianne from Idaho

Dianne asks a very good question…and one I’ve heard quite often! We all know what it’s like to have the greatest plans for our yard that never seem to quite materialize. Sometimes you even get so motivated that you actually purchase the bulbs and yet they still never make it in the ground! Whether it’s a forgetful mind, the unpredictability of Mother Nature, or just plain running out of time, it’s okay: we’ve ALL done it. And the best news? It may not be too late for your bulbs!

These bulbs were bought with good intentions...anything you can do with them now?

The most important factor to consider when deciding what to do with fall bulbs which were never planted in fall is the conditions in which they have been stored. Were they kept in a cool, dry place since you bought them? Were they left out in the garage? Were they left on the warm kitchen table? Test your bulbs for firmness by squeezing them. Also look for signs of rot or blight by checking the outside of the bulbs for dark or mushy spots. If the bulbs feel firm and have a rather healthy-looking outside, then you’ve got yourself some winners! Most likely, if the bulb was left outside or in a very cold garage and was allowed to freeze, it is no longer salvageable.

So now that you’ve determined that your bulbs are still healthy enough to survive, it’s time to get them “chilled.” As you may or may not know, most fall bulbs (tulips, daffodils, and hyacinth to be specific) need to be chilled in order to grow and bloom properly in the springtime. When planting them in northern climates which receive consistently cool weather in the winter (Zones 3-8), this happens naturally. However, since your bulbs were not planted before the winter and now the ground is frozen, the bulbs can no longer be planted in the ground this year. This leaves you with two options:

1. Plant the bulbs in one large (or a few small) pots. Plant them at the correct depth but don’t worry too
   

   These 'Queen of Night' Tulips need to be chilled in order to grow and bloom correctly.

   much about the spacing. As long as the bulbs aren’t on top of one another or smashed side-by-side, they’ll be fine. Place this pot in a cool but not freezing garage (upper 30’s and 40’s for temperature). If you do not have a garage or shed which meets this criteria, the pot can be left outside on a patio or deck as long as it is wrapped in something which will protect it from frost (such as burlap or bubble wrap). The bulbs will then receive their necessary “chilling” period but will not freeze. In approximately 10 to 12 weeks or so, you should start to see a little growth. Once this happens, move the pot to a nice sunny patio or lawn area (or remove the bubble warp). The bulbs will continue to grow and bloom just as they would in the ground. The bulbs can then be dug out of the pot and moved to a flowerbed either during their growing cycle or after the foliage has browned and dried. OR…

2. Place the bulbs in a paper bag in the refrigerator. Be sure that the refrigerator is set at a temperature between 35°F and 50°F. Also, rid the refrigerator of any fruit (particularly apples) as these produce a plant hormone called “ethylene” when ripening which will cause flower bulbs to rot. After a period of 10-12 weeks, the bulbs may start to sprout. At this time, the ground outside should be thawed and the bulbs planted in the ground. They will then grow and bloom as normal!

One important thing to keep in mind when doing this is that the environment required by these bulbs is being artificially created. Therefore, be forgiving of your bulbs and do not expect them to be super all-star growers and bloomers the first year. It may take them a little while to readjust but after they have completed their first full growing season, you’ll never be able to tell the difference!

Because Dianne’s question was featured in the Bulb Blog, she received a $5.00 off coupon for her next Holland Bulb Farms order. Congratulations to her and thank you for the great question! Keep them coming and you may get a coupon, too!

Until next time,

Got a gardening question for Bridget? Email her at bridget@bulbblog.com! If she features your question in a post, you’ll receive a coupon of your next order at www.hollandbulbfarms.com!

Lilies are one of the only winter hardy spring planted bulbs and are also extremely gorgeous!

I’ve gotten several questions regarding tulips and daffodils from novice gardeners, wondering if they’re “too late” to plant these bulbs. My answer to these good-intentioned diggers in the dirt is yes. Unfortunately, these fall-planted bulbs need to be planted at the proper time in order to bloom correctly in the spring. This is why some of you may be having a difficult time finding these types of bulbs (daffodils, tulips, hyacinth, crocus, iris, and allium to name a few).

But do not despair! You can still jump on the bulb bandwagon! Did you know that there are actually bulbs which are meant to be planted in the springtime

The 'Postman Joyner' Caladium has striking red centers to its leaves.

for a summer bloom? Many people have heard of dahlias, canna lilies, calla lilies, and gladiolus, but not as many have grown them. These bulbs add great spalshes of color to your gardens long into the growing season and most of them make GREAT CUTFLOWERS! What could be better than going out into your own garden on a summer day and picking yourself a bouquet of fresh flowers which you grew yourself!

Since these bulbs are much less familiar than tulips, daffodils, and hyacinth, I thought I’d give you a quick overview of the types available and how they are grown:

• Caladiums - Caladiums are wonderfully textured plants, grown primarily for their foliage. The leaves of this particular plant range in color from white to pink to red to different hues of green. These bulbs are sold as tubers and are planted just below the ground surface in partial to full shade areas. They will begin growing the same year they are planted and will put on their amazing foliage display from summer until frost. Caladiums are hardy from Zones 9 to 11. Many gardeners in more northern zones still grow Caladiums; they are either treated as an annual or are dug up in fall and replanted in spring.

• Calla Lilies – Calla Lilies are one of the most popular flowers for fresh flower arrangements and are often seen at weddings. Their elegant shape and varying heights make them
  

  Calla Lilies make an elegant statement in the garden!

  a nice addition to the garden. These bulbs are sold as tuberous rhizomes and are to be planted just below the soil surface in full to partial sun areas. They will begin to grow and bloom the first year in mid-summer. Calla Lilies are hardy from Zones 8-10 and Zone 7 with winter protection. Calla Lilies can be grown in northern zones as annuals or dug up in fall to overwinter in a cool, dry place.

• Canna Lilies - Canna Lilies are grown for their great height, colorful flowers, and showy foliage. These lilies add a tropical feel to any landscape which make them nice for plantings near a patio and/or pool. These bulbs are sold as rhizomes and are planted just below the soil surface in areas receiving full sun. They will begin to grow and bloom the first year in mid-summer.  Canna Lilies are hardy in Zones 8-11, need protection in Zone 7, and are treated as annuals or dug up in fall for Zones 4-6.

• Dahlias – There are literally thousands of Dahlias available in a wide array of shapes, sizes, and colors. This very popular plant produces beautiful, brightly-colored flowers and are sold as tubers. They are planted approx. 3-4″ below the ground’s surface (depending on the size of the bulb) in partial to full sun areas. They will begin to grow and bloom the first year in late summer and stay in bloom until frost.  Dahlias are hardy from Zones 8-10, need protection in Zone 7, and are treated as annuals or dug up in fall in Zones 4-6.
  

  These pink dahlias are some of my favorites!

• Gladiolus – Gladiolus are very common in formal floral arrangements and are easy-to-grow, summer-blooming plants which are sold as corms. They are planted approx. 3-4″ below the ground’s surface (depending on the size of the bulb) in full sun areas. They will begin to grow and bloom the first year in late summer. Gladiolus are hardy in Zones 8-10 and Zone 7 with winter protection. Gladiolus can also be grown in northern zones up to Zone 4 if they are treated as annuals or dug for overwintering in the fall.
  

  Gladiolus are commonly used in cut flower arrangements for their great color and form.

• Asiatic/Oriental Lilies – Asiatic and Oriental Lilies are wonderful additions to any cut flower garden and are extremely easy to grow. Sold as a bulb, these lily bulbs should be planted approx. 6-8″ below the ground’s surface (depending on the size of the bulb) in full sun area. They will begin to grow and bloom the first year in mid summer. Asiatic and Oriental Lilies are both winter hardy and therefore can be grown in Zones 3-9 with no fear of winter weather.

So don’t feel like it’s too late to try your green, or not so green, thumb at planting some bulbs! Come summertime, you’ll be very glad you did!

Until next time,

Have a question for Bridget about spring planted bulbs? Send your question to bridget@bulbblog.com! If Bridget features your question on the Bulb Blog, you’ll recieve a $5.00 coupon for your next order at www.hollandbulbfarms.com!

Can’t stop thinking about spring? You’re not alone! Vote in our poll and compare your favorite parts of spring with others. Check back to see results!

Surprise her this year with a unique bouquet!

“Think staying power when choosing flowers,” advises Sally Ferguson, the director of the Netherlands Flower Bulb Information Center.  “For long-lasting flowers, choose tight buds just beginning to open.  Fully-open flowers are short-hitters,” says Ferguson whose website, bulb.com, offers these and other cut flower tips.

More flowers are sold on Valentine’s Day than any other U.S. holiday and, not surprisingly, men are the major buyers. 

 “Roses are the most commonly-given Valentine’s flowers, but tulips are closing in as a creative alternative,” says Ferguson.  “Last Valentine’s season, one major national floral retailer alone reported delivering three million roses and nearly one million tulips for the holiday,” she said. Ferguson says, with either of these favorites, the most important thing is to buy buds that are fresh and gift-worthy. Why not go out on a limb and try buying her some Calla Lilies this year? Score extra points if you buy the flower that adorned her wedding bouquet!  Here are some tips to picking the perfect flower:

Classic white calla lilies cut in a vase.

Non-Traditionalist:  Picking Perfect Calla Lilies

• Petals that spring back when touched
• Straight stems (try either classically long for formal vases or stylishly short for low vases)
• Monochromatic (all one color) generally preferred
• Deliver promptly – need water quickly and don’t respond to sitting all day in a box, unless kept cool

• Use cut flower food provided by florist 

  Uncoventional: Choosing Perfect Tulips

• Look for tight buds with some color showing
• Red, Pink, Apricot, and bi-colors dominate for Valentine’s Day
• Monochromatic looks are stylish or pick several for a more fun, flirty touch
• Skip flower food; tulips tend to like plain, cool water — top vase off daily
• Consider potted tulips instead of cut for an unusual gift that will be a lasting treasure!  

Tulips are a great alternative to the over-used rose bouquets!

 After all, you can’t really go wrong with flowers. Says Ferguson, “Candy is fattening, lingerie risky, but flowers are almost always sure to please.”  For longer vase life for all flowers, she adds: re-trim stem tips before arranging, remove leaves below the water line to keep water fresh, and place vases away from sun and heat.  For additional cut flower tips, visit bulb.com.

 Want to REALLY impress her next year? Why not try planting and growing your own spring or fall bulbs for cutflowers! What could be more personal than giving the love of your life flowers which you grew yourself?!

We’ve all seen it: the neighbor’s yard full of brilliant tulips, daffodils, and hyacinth in the spring…or the gorgeous fenceline covered with vibrantly-colored dahlias and lilies in the late summer. Wouldn’t we all love to grow flowers like these? You can! The key is knowing when to plant what and then remembering to do it! So here’s a quick guide to help assist you in planning your garden:

Hardy spring bulbs such as tulips are planted in fall because they need a period of cold in order to stimulate the biochemical process that makes them flower in spring. (Photo: NFBIC)

When to Plant Fall Bulbs?

First of all, bulb planting times are pretty much divided up into two seasons: spring and fall. When an experienced garden refers to “fall bulbs“, they are most likely referring to bulbs which are planted in the fall and therefore bloom in the spring. These bulbs are typically the most familiar and include the following: tulips, daffodils, hyacinth, allium, iris, crocus, fritillaria, and muscari. So what exactly does “fall” mean? Depending upon where you live, fall may start in late September for you or not until mid-November! A good rule of thumb to follow: wait until the nighttime temperatures are consistently between 40°F and 50°F. In most areas, October is a pretty good month to safely plant your fall bulbs. Just be sure to get the bulbs in the ground prior to a severe frost but not too early that they sprout pre-maturely.

Dahlias are great summer bloomers! (Photo: NFBIC)

When to Plant Spring Bulbs?

Conversely, when referring to “spring bulbs“, a gardener is most likely referring to bulbs which are planted in the spring and therefore bloom in the fall. These  bulbs are not planted quite as often as the fall bulbs but are still fairly easy to grow and produce gorgeous blooms! They include the following: begonias, calla lilies, cannas, caladiums, elephant ears, gladiolus, lilies, freesia, cyclamen, and anemone. Again, the season “spring” may vary based upon your Hardiness Zone. Basically, once the ground has thawed, your spring bulbs can be planted. The weather should be consistently above freezing at this point with the chances of a frost slim to none. In most areas, April is a perfect month to do your spring bulb planting.

Hope this information helps clear up any confusion about when to plant the types of bulbs you desire to grow. Now that you know when to plant bulbs, get out there and plant them! Too many times we marvel at the flowers when they are blooming and commit to planting them ourselves, but by the time the correct season comes around to do it, we never do! Do you have a desire for a yard full of tulips? Take a picture of some and hang it on your fridge with a note saying, “Plant fall bulbs in October.” This way you won’t forget how much you love them when the time comes to plant! Are you envious of your neighbor’s Gladioli? Snap a quick shot and place the picture in the pocket of your spring coat to remind you to plant your own! Just wait and see: you, too, will have beautiful gardens!

Until next time,

Have more questions about planting bulbs? Ask Bridget at bridget@bulbblog.com. If Bridget features your question in a future blog, you’ll receive a coupon good on  your next purchase at www.hollandbulbfarms.com!

Bulbs in Pots: A “One Hit Wonder” or A Lasting Treasure?

I’ve received lots of inquiries lately regarding bulbs planted in pots. We’ve all seen it: the gorgeous pots of hyacinth, tulips, and daffodils in full bloom sold at the local supermarket or floral shoppe. If you’re anything like me, you’ve probably purchased one (or at least thought about it) and triumphantly brought your little piece of spring home with you. We are all anxious for spring and who wouldn’t want a little reminder that it will one day indeed come?

So you’ve brought home the pot of adorable miniature daffodils or extremely fragrant hyacinth or maybe you’ve signed up to receive a potted Easter Lily at church and they produced gorgeous blooms for a week or two. But now what do do with these beautiful indoor bulbs after flowering? Was the money you spent on this pot of once-blooming flowers wasted? Is there nothing left to do but dispose of the pot along with the bulbs just as though it were a fresh floral arrangement? Absolutely NOT! Why not replant the bulbs in your garden or another pot to enjoy for years to come? The process is actually quite simple:

1. Once the plant has stopped blooming, discontinue watering and allow the foliage to die back.
2. Once the foliage is dried and brown, remove it from the pot by gently tugging on the leaves until they break from the bulb and come out of the ground. (If the leaves do not pull away from the bulbs easily you haven’t waited quite long enough for the foliage to die. It is very important to not remove the foliage prematurely as it helps to put energy back in the bulbs for the next year’s blooms.)
3. Remove the bulbs from the dirt and dust them off. Check for any rotten or soft spots on bulbs. If these spots are visible on any bulbs, discard them. Allow them to dry out on a piece of paper in a cool, dry and dark place (such as a cellar or basement).

   

   Don't throw away these gorgeous tulip bulbs...replant them!

4. If you live in Hardiness Zones 3 – 8 (an area that stays consistently near or below freezing for a period of at least 10-12 weeks during the winter), the bulbs can be replanted in your outdoor garden in fall, anytime between late September and early November, preferrably prior to the first frost.
5. If you live south of Hardiness Zone 8 (your winters do not fall into the above mentioned category), you will need to “pre-chill” these bulbs in October or November by placing them into your refrigerator in a brown paper bag for a period of 10-12 weeks. Be sure not to store any fruits or vegetables near your bag of bulbs as they give off a chemical called “ethylene” while ripening that can cause bulbs to rot. Once the bulbs have chilled for the correct period and may even have started to sprout, they are ready to be replanted either in the outdoors or in a pot!

So the next time you pass the floral counter at the grocery store or hear of an offer to order some potted bulbs for Easter, don’t hesitate to pick one up for yourself! Remember, spring planting bulbs work great for this, too! Good luck to you!

Until next time,

Want to learn more about planting bulbs in pots? Email Bridget at bridget@bulbblog.com! Your question may even be featured in a future blog post!

Some of the growers' fields which provide many of the begonias Holland Bulb Farms sells.

Tired of Winter? Start Spring Early with Indoor Forcing!

So the cookies have all been eaten, the Christmas tree is at the curb, and the stockings are no longer hung. Yet even though the holidays are over, the winter “duldrums” are plentiful: you’re still zipping up your bulky coat before leaving the house, you barely make it home before the sun has set, and your shovel hasn’t seen much of a break. So what now?

It is easy at this time of year to feel somewhat hopeless about the outdoors and wish that you could hibernate like the bears do. So why not start your gardening early? Most summer-blooming bulbs are great for forcing indoors, even before the ground has thawed! Not only will starting your plants indoors boost your mood and add some color to the bleak winter, but it will also give your plants a head start for the summer season. Come springtime, you’ll have the most vigorous plants in the neighborhood!

Starting Begonias Indoors

Today, I figured I’d explain the steps to starting your begonias indoors for fuller, more vigorous growth. Begonias are a great bulb to experiment with if this is your first shot at forcing since they are one of the most successful to begin indoors. Begonias also tend to be quite popular, due to their brilliant colors and ability to grow in shady areas (not to mention the namesake of my four-legged gardening buddy ) . Simply perform the following steps and you’ll be well on your way to having gorgeous begonias!

White double begonias in the grower's greenhouse.

ITEMS YOU WILL NEED:

• Begonia tubers
• Well-drained soil
• Seed trays or small pots
• Paper or plastic wrap
• General plant fertilizer
• Water

WHAT TO DO:

1. Fill the seed trays or small pots with soil.
2. In late February or March, plant the tubers (hollow side up) just below the soil level. Soil should be somewhat moist.
3. Cover with paper or plastic wrap and place on a window sill or other location with indirect maximum light. Temperature should not fall below 60°F.
4. Water sparingly until growth begins (may take up to 5-6 weeks to see growth above ground although roots have started).
5. Once shoots emerge from the soil, remove paper or plastic wrap and begin watering regularly. An application of a good liquid plant food will improve growth.
6. Once substantial growth has formed and leaves have begun to appear, transplant plants to outside container or garden.

It’s that simple! When picking a location outdoors for your begonias, remember that they thrive in semi-shade so avoid areas which receive direct midday sun. Begonias also dislike dry conditions, so be sure to water generously, especially during periods of hot weather. As with most plants, an application of well-balanced plant food every two to three weeks will encourage healthy, vigorous growth. Just remove dead, wilted leaves and flowers and you’ll have begonia blooms all summer!

The new 'Sunrise' Scentiment Begonia!

One more quick note: People are always asking me about where to purchase the newly developed fragrant begonias. One of the only places I have found them is at www.hollandbulbfarms.com. These are referred to as Scentiment® Begonias and grow with a fresh, lemony scent!

Help yourself out this year by bringing spring into your home early! And say goodbye to the winter duldrums! Good luck!

Until next time,

Like this article? Want to learn more about indoor forcing other types of bulbs? Email Bridget at bridget@bulbblog.com!

These indoor blooms make wonderful gifts and come in a variety colors!

Amaryllis: The Gift that Keeps on Giving!

As hard as it is to believe, the holidays are just around the corner. That being said, whether you’re the organized shopper who bought everyone’s Christmas gift over the summer or you’re the procrastinator without a clue, there’s bound to be someone who seems to have everything. Or what about that person that you think might drop by and need a gift “just in case”? Have you thought about your child’s teacher or Great Aunt Gertrude or your hair stylist?

How about a unique gift that they will actually enjoy? Try bringing plant life to the cold days by giving an indoor bulb! One of the most common of these indoor growing bulbs is the Amaryllis. Now I already know what you’re thinking: I don’t want to give a gift that requires WORK…let alone a plant that I know will never survive. So what if Gertrude’s thumb isn’t that green! The best part about these gifts is that they are extremely EASY to grow and fun to watch! Have grandchildren that are interested in the way things grow but are bored with the “expandable sponge animals”? Give them each an amaryllis bulb to plant and record the progress! And the best part: many times bulb websites such as Holland Bulb Farms sell these indoor bulbs in giftbox kits which include everything you need to grow the bulb. Sure takes the difficulty out of a unique gift, doesn’t it?

A close up picture of my sister's Amaryllis on her desk at work.

Allow me to tell you about my sister: My dear sister, a wonderful person full of great ideas and motivation, is not gifted with the talent of “growing things.” Or maybe better said, she has difficulty keeping plants alive Yet as far as I’m concerned, every house could benefit from some “greenery” so I gave her an amaryllis. Of course, I received the response I knew I would: “Oh thanks, Bridget. But…ah…you know how I am with plants. Do I have to water it?” I laughed and assured her that even SHE couldn’t mess this one up. I also told her that the great thing about amaryllis is that they only need to be watered once a week! Sure enough, three weeks later, I received an email from her, pictures attached. She had taken her amaryllis to her office and it had bloomed beautifully! Her only complaint was that she couldn’t get any work done because her co-workers would constantly stop to ask her what the gorgeous plant on her desk was called!

So why not try giving a unique gift this year rather than the same old gift card to McDonald’s or gaudy Christmas ornament? The blooms last for weeks and they couldn’t be easier to grow!

Until next time,

Have a question for Bridget? Be sure to email her at bridget@bulbblog.com. Have your question featured in the blog and receive $5.00 off your next order with www.hollandbulbfarms.com!

I’ve got a few things I could use to get myself ready for the end of summer and fast-approaching fall season however, I’m not sure my wallet is going to allow such “expenditures” as I would like. Ironically, I received an email from a friend regarding the Live/Microsoft/Bing Cashback (who are they now?) shopping website. For those of you who are not familiar with this site, they offer cashback on purchases made through hundreds of online stores where you can make excellent purchases on everyday items.

Well  in two or three weeks or so (beginning August 1oth), Bing is going to begin DOUBLING 2X the cashback offered by everyone of the stores listed on there website.  They did this last year and I got about $230 back on all of my purchases!

What I’m waiting for:  AT&T = 35% OFF , FootLocker = 40% OFF, t-mobile = 45% OFF WOW!

So after receiving this email, I immediately jumped on Bing.com and searched for garden tools. After all, I’ve done a lot of planting these year already and my tool collection is beginning to show some wear and tear. I could definitely use a few updates before planting my fall bulbs Sure enough, through Bing, Overstock has thousands of garden tools to choose from and is currently offering 12% cashback on all of their purchases. Therefore, if I wait to purchase my tools until after the 10th of August, I can make 24% of every purchase of garden tools! My mind began to race: could I purchase my bulbs through Bing this  year and make cashback on those as well? Sure enough! My favorite flower bulbs website, is currently offering 10% cashback which will soon be 20%!

I tried to find a link to the email, or a link on the live website but there is NO MENTION of this anyplace.   I wonder if they weren’t supposed to send the email yet – wouldn’t be the first time microsoft!

Until next time,