Just as I promised, the second garden in my 3X3 Garden Series is specially suited for all of you shade-dwellers! The wonderful warm color of apricot is one of my personal favorites in the garden as it catches the eye without over-powering everything else. While bright splashes of colors such as yellow and pink can make quite the statement, it’s sometimes almost too much to take in all at once. The hue of the apricot begonias in this collections give a subtle, more refined palette of color while the foliage of the caladiums adds a wonderful texture to the backdrop or center of a container. The three amazing plants in the following gardens are the Picotee Apricot and Scarlet Begonia, the Roseform Apricot Begonia, and the Red Ruffles Caladium. Let’s take a look at each of them briefly, shall we?:

Picotee Apricot and Scarlet Begonia (3) total tubers
In the world of flower blooms, the term “picotee” refers to a thin margin of a secondary color on the petals of the bloom. In the case of this begonia, a rich golden yellow-orange apricot petal is edged with a thin line of scarlet red. Subtle enough to not create a busy appearance, the petals almost appear to be glowing. Like most begonias, this one loves the shade and staying moist (although not wet) and grows approximately 8-14″ tall. The tubers should be planted just below the soil surface to avoid rotting issues. The main color of the petals complement the roseform begonia in this collection perfectly while the red margin help to echo the Red Ruffles Caladium.

Roseform Apricot Begonia (3) total tubers
Beautiful in every way, the Roseform Apricot Begonia could not be more perfect in this collection. The swirling appearance of the petals add a soft touch to the bold statement this gorgeous gem makes in the shade garden or container. (This is actually one of my favorite spring-planted bulbs and I’m not even usually a fan of begonias!) This one also grows 8-14″ tall which makes it perfect in front or around the taller-growing caladium. This shade-lover will add a true touch of elegance to your garden bed or planter.

Red Ruffles Caladium (3) total tubers
One of the newest members to the Caladium family, the foliage of the Red Ruffles caladium has a slight curl to its margins, giving it depth and dimension. The deep red centers fade into a green margin. This particular caladium resides in perfect harmony with the begonias as it is sits just above them in height (12-18″) and coordinates beautifully with its deep red and green leaves. Not only that, but this newly-developed variety has been bred for a tad more sun tolerance than other caladiums. Since this plant will provide some shade for the begonias in the following layouts, a partially-shaded location would be ideal for this charmer!

Garden Layout #1: Round Planter or Container

This is a wonderful combination for the small- to medium-sized pot in that partially shaded corner of your patio. I recommend using a pot at least 18″ in diameter (can be larger but may not look as full) for the amounts of plants in this collection. Place the (3) caladium bulbs in a triangular shape in the center of the pot, approximately 6-8″ apart and no more than 2″ below the soil surface. Then place the (6) begonia tubers, concave side up, in a circular pattern while alternating colors around these caladiums, approximately 4-6″ apart and 4-6″ away from the caladiums’ location. Try to leave at least 4″ between the center of the begonia tuber and the edge of the pot to give them room to grow. Feel free to fill in with your favorite shade-loving annuals of greens and oranges. Short-growing coleus would be an excellent choice!

Garden Layout #2: Circular or Tree Garden Bed

These particular plants work amazingly well when used in a tree ring or circular bed under a large structure as the shade the tree will provide is just what the doctor ordered for these guys! Start by placing your caladiums around the tree trunk (or structure) in the center, approximately 6-10″ apart. Obviously, you may have to provide more spacing depending on the diameter of the trunk at the base. Cover them with 1-2″ of well-drained soil. Then plant your begonia tubers (concave side up) in a circular pattern around the caladiums, leaving 6-8″ between each one and approximately 6″ between them and the caladiums. You will want to be sure to leave at least 3-4″ of open soil between the center of each begonia tuber and the edge of the bed to allow for them to fill in without hanging over onto the surround grass or paved surface.

Garden Layout #3: Rectangular Garden Bed

In this example, I am assuming that your garden bed is parallel to a taller “structure” of some kind, such as a fence, house, or even a line of tall shrubbery. If this is the case, you most definitely will want to place the caladiums (which are taller-growing) towards the back of the bed, approximately 8-10″ apart and no more than 2″ below the soil surface. If for some reason the bed is more “free-standing” and not along a structure place the caladiums down the center of the bed with the begonias around them, similar to the previous examples. The begonias will then be placed in a diagonal pattern (while again alternating colors) in front of these caladiums, approximately 6-8″ apart. As in the previous example (and always when planting begonias), do not cover these with much soil and be sure that the concave side of the begonia tuber is facing upward.

This completes my second 3×3 Garden! As with all of the gardens in my 3×3 Garden Series, this one is available at half-price on Holland Bulb Farms right here. Each purchase of the collection event comes with a full instruction sheet detailing each garden layout for easy reference when you are out planting in the garden. Be watching for next week’s 3×3 feature which focuses on two of my favorite things in the summer garden: dahlias and the color purple!!!

With hands in the dirt and head in the clouds,

I’ll admit it: up until a few years ago, I didn’t mess around with bulbs that weren’t hardy in my area. I only grew those plants which I knew would reliably return year after year and if I did grow anything that wouldn’t survive the winter, well, I grew it as an annual and just planned on replanting the following season. However, I soon grew tired of spending large amounts of money each year on plants and bulbs that would simply be lost to earth once the snow began to fall. It was finally when I fell absolutely head over heels for a dahlia which I grew that I decided to try the concept of overwintering some of these bulbs. I soon realized that my fear was not a legitimate one and the process was actually quite easy!

First of all, you will need to identify which bulbs are hardy in your zone and which are not. For those of you in the warmer zones, such as southern parts of 8, 9, 10, and 11, most of this will not apply. However, for anyone in the northern region of zone 8 or above, most of the spring-planted bulbs (such as dahlias, cannas, calla lilies, caladiums, begonias, etc.) will need to be overwintered indoors in order to keep them for next year. If you are unsure of your zone, simply enter your zip code here.

Once you have determined which bulbs you need to save from the winter weather, you are ready to get to work! Follow these simple steps to save yourself time and money next spring:

1. Once the leaves of the plant have yellowed or been affected by a light frost, carefully dig the bulb, tuber, or rhizome from the ground.
2. Brush off as much of the dirt as possible from the root system and place on a dry surface, such as a on top of a paper bag or screen of some kind.
3. The time it will take for the root system to dry out (or “cure”) will depend on the specific type of bulb. Dahlias, for instance will be dry in a half of day, cannas will be ready overnight, and gladiolus take a couple of weeks. If in doubt, leave the bulbs for several weeks and check them for moisture. If any foliage or dirt remains attached once the root systems are cured, remove them.
4. Once the bulbs are dried, you will want to place them in a shallow pot or tray and cover them with dry planting material, such as peat or sawdust. If you are overwintering any gladiolus, place them in a bag of breathable material but do not cover. Make sure to label your pots/bags with colors and varieties so that you know what you have when it comes to planting time in the spring!
5. Place these containers in a cool, dark location which receives good air circulation and remains dry throughout the winter. Once the threat of frost has passed in the spring, replant and enjoy them again!

Now is the perfect time to start this process for many northern parts of the country. If the idea of overwintering your tender bulbs intimidates you, maybe just start with a few and give it a shot…I’m guessing you’ll find it easier than you thought!

Until next time,

 
Have a comment to share with other readers? Feel free to post below. Have a question specifically for Bridget? Feel free to email her at bridget@bulbblog.com!

The next type of spring-planted bulbs we’re going to focus on is the Tuberous Begonia. Known for their wonderful ability to grow in the shade, small habit and lush green foliage, these tubers make great addition to shady gardens and borders. In this article, we’ll review the advantages of using these beauties in your garden, as well as different planting techniques and tips for growing them.

Classification

Begonias work wonderfully along walkways and as borders to other shaded gardens.

Tuberous Begonias can typically be grouped into three types: Begonia tuberhybridia, Begonia multiflora, and Begonia pendula. The Begonia tuberhybridia types are the most commonly grown and well-known and include the Double Begonias, Ruffled Begonias, Roseform Begonias, and Picotee Begonias. The Begonia multiflora variety include the Multiple Flowering varieties with smaller, numerous blooms. The Begonia pendula are the Hanging Basket-type of begonias which trail over the edges of planters and pots. Oftentimes, the novice gardener will confuse these tuberous begonias with wax begonias, which are grown more as an annual or indoor plants and not from a tuber (or bulb).

Tubers for all three types of these begonias are typically available for purchase in late winter/early spring. They look like small brown lumps with a depression on one side. When choosing the tubers, be sure to check for firmness and look for those with tiny sprouts on the upper, concave surfaces. This is a good sign that they are healthy and ready to begin growing!

Growing Begonias

As previously mentioned, Begonias should be planted during the spring season, anytime after the threat of frost is gone but before the weather gets too warm. For most of the United States, this time period falls between mid-March and mid-May. Maybe begonia growers located in cooler climates, choose to start their begonias early (middle to end of February) indoors to give them a head start on the growing season. Many bulb companies will over this “early delivery” as on option on this partcular type of spring-planted bulb. (For more detailed information on just how to go about starting these tubers indoors, be sure to check out last year’s blog article here: http://www.bulbblog.com/start-begonias-indoors/)

This Sunrise Scentiment Begonia is of the "ruffled" type and is not only pleasing to look at, but also provides a wonderful fragrance!

Begonias will begin blooming mid-summer and will continue until frost! Begonias thrive in partial to full shade and need to be protected from hot sun and drying winds. The key to successfully growing begonias is to make sure the soild is well-drained. Begonia tubers are extremely susceptible to rot and therefore do not like any excess moisture. However, be sure to not let the soil dry out between waterings during the summer months. Fertilize once per month during the growing season with a water soluble fertilizer (such as Miracle-Grow).Always water the soil around the plants rather than the plants themselves whenever possible to avoid the forming of fungus or mildew on the foliage. The tubers should be planted hollow side up and covered with only 1/2 to 1″ of soil. Planting them too deep will only encourage rotting. Water well after planting to “wake up” the tubers but then not again until you see growth, which usually takes 4-6 weeks.

For aesthetic reasons, pink off extra long stems as the plants grow. This will encourage blooming and keep your plants from looking “leggy”. When growing the hanging basket-type, make sure they have lots of branches to cascade from their plants by pinching out the primary growing tip when the plant is 2″ tall. Also, deadhead your begonias often by removing wild=ted leaves and flowers. This will retain the “clean” look of the plants and will also encourage repeat blooming throughout the season.

Tuber Storage

Once the plants have completed their growing and blooming cycle, the leaves and flower stems will begin to die back as they enter their dormant stage. Begonias are hardy in Zones 8, 9, and 10. In these areas, simply cut the stems back to within 1-4″ of the soil surface once they have completely died back. Leave the tuber in the ground for the remaining fall and winter. If located in zones north of Zone 8 (Zones 1-7), you will need to take special care of the tubers in order to protect them from the harsh winter weather. Southern parts of Zone 7 can usually get away with giving the tubers a good drink of water in the fall and placing a think layer of mulch over the area where the tubers are planted. To be really sure, however, the tubers will need to be removed from the soil and overwintered indoors. To do so, follow these simple steps:

1. Since begonia tubers tend to be susceptible to rot, it is often a good idea to bring them indoors just before the first frost. If grown in movable planters, bring the planters indoors and gradually begin with-holding water. Once the leaves begin to die and wilt, remove the stems and leaves carefully from the tubers.
2. If your tubers are planted outside in the garden, simply dig them up (plant and bulb together) and bring them indoors prior to the first frost. The foliage will begin dying back quickly and can then be removed.
3. Gently brush off any excess dirt from the tubers and place them in a tray or pot with dry sand, peat moss, or vermiculite.
4. Store them in a cool, well-ventilated, frost-free area such as a cellar or garage over winter. A temperature of 45-55°F is ideal.
5. Replant in the spring once ground has thawed!

Those who grow Begonia tubers are some of the most passionate gardeners on earth…and it’s easy to see why! Looking absolutely gorgeous with their bright, large blooms and lush green foliage, it’s hard to believe these plants don’t need much sunlight! Whether you’re a “begonia growing veteran” or have never tried them before, be sure to make your selections early this year and get them growing as soon as possible!

Until next time,

Have a question about begonias or any other bulb gardening topic? Ask Bridget! Email her at bridget@bulbblog.com! If she features your question in a future post, you’ll receive a Holland Bulb Farms coupon for your next order at Holland Bulb Farms!

When you think of “flower bulbs” what comes to mind? If you’re like most people, you immediate picture fields of tulips and daffodils, or maybe groupings of hyacinth.

While this idea of bulbs is definitely a correct one, it is also somewhat limited. Did you realize that there are actually two planting seasons for bulbs? These planting seasons are classified as “fall planted” and “spring planted” bulbs.

Fall bulbs are extremely popular and add great color to the spring garden!

Fall planted bulbs, as I mentioned earlier, are definitely the more well-known bulbs in the group. These include your allium, crocus, daffodils, fritillaria, hyacinth, iris, muscari (grape hyacinth), scilla, and of course, the tulips. These bulbs are typically planted sometime between mid-September and mid-December, depending on  your hardiness zone and then bloom the following spring. Many of these bulbs actually require a chilling period (the winter season) in order to bloom and grow correctly. Therefore, gardeners who live in Zones 2 through 7b/8 can grow these without any special care and leave the bulbs in the ground year round. On the other hand, gardeners who live in warmer climates (Zones 8 through 11) and don’t receive this chilling period naturally outdoors, need to provide these bulbs with the cool period artificially, such as in a refrigerator prior to planting every year.

Dahlias are just one of the many amazing spring planted bulbs that can add great color to your late summer and early fall garden.

Spring planted bulbs are somewhat less well-known in the “bulb world” but are just as valuable to the landscape! These bulbs include anemone, begonias, calla lilies, canna lilies, dahlias, elephant ears, gladiolus, oriental and asiatic lilies, and herbaceous perennials. These bulbs are best planted between early March and late May, again depending on the hardiness zone in which you are located and then bloom in the summer and/or fall. Many of these bulbs (with the exception of oriental/asiatic lilies as well as herbaceous perennials) are not frost hardy and therefore need protection or special care during the winter in Zones 2 through 7b/8. However, the gardeners in Zones 8 through 11 can leave most of these bulbs in the ground year-round without the worry of frost damage.

Since the spring planted bulbs are often overlooked but yet have oh-so-much to offer, I figured it might be good to review them. Over the next couple of weeks, I am going to lead you through the land of the spring planted bulbs. Each article will focus on a different type of spring planted (summer/fall blooming) bulbs, highlighting their great qualities as well as pointing out any maintenance tips that may be important. So follow me on this wonderful journey and open your eyes to this wonderful world of spring planted bulbs!

Until next time,

Have a question about when to plant a certain type of bulb or any other bulb gardening topic? Ask Bridget! Email her at bridget@bulbblog.com! If she features your question in a future post, you’ll receive a Holland Bulb Farms coupon for your next order at Holland Bulb Farms!

One of the most popular questions asked by beginners to bulb gardening is, “How do I know which end of the bulb to plant up?”  While the answer to this question can vary based on the type of bulb, generally speaking, the pointed end of the bulb should be planted up (such as with a tulip, daffodil, or hyacinth). Also, if a bulb is smaller than the size of a nickel, there really isn’t a top and bottom.

The good news is that bulbs are quite smart and they’ll figure out which direction to grow, regardless of how they are planted! If a bulb is planted upside down, it will simply take an extra day or two to reach the surface. If after deliberating over which end is the top and you still can’t tell, plant the bulb on its side. Once again, the bulb is smart enough to know which way to grow and will now only have to travel half the distance to the surface.

A few bulbs, especially some of those bulbs planted in spring, have a more definite answer to the question. For instance, begonia tubers have a concave and convex side. In this case, the “hollow” side of tuber should be planted down and the “rounded” side up. Other tuberous spring planted bulbs such as cannas and callas grow long and narrow. These should be planted horizontally 1″ or 2″ below the ground’s surface.

The smooth side of the Elephant Ear bulb is the top and should planted up.

Perhaps one of the most confusing bulbs to know which direction to plant is the Elephant Ear. As those of you who have previously planted one know, an Elephant Ear bulb is very round and has no definite “points”. However, most of these bulbs will have a smooth side as well as a side that contains more bumps and maybe even a few root hairs from the previous growing season. The smooth side of the Elephant Ear is typically the top and should be planted up. Chances

The bumpy side of the Elephant Ear bulb is the bottom and should be planted down.

are, the bumpy side with some possible hairs is slightly flatter than the smooth top side. This is the bottom. Like all bulbs, an Elephant Ear will know which way to grow regardless of how it is planted. When in doubt, plant it on its side! See pictures below for more clarification.

Spring is definitely here and gardeners everywhere are rejoicing! So get out in the garden and get to work! It’ll make you feel good

Easter blessings,

Have a question about which way to plant your bulbs or any other gardening topic? Ask Bridget! Email her at bridget@bulbblog.com! If she features your question in a future post, you’ll receive a coupon for your next order with Holland Bulb Farms!

Some of the growers' fields which provide many of the begonias Holland Bulb Farms sells.

Tired of Winter? Start Spring Early with Indoor Forcing!

So the cookies have all been eaten, the Christmas tree is at the curb, and the stockings are no longer hung. Yet even though the holidays are over, the winter “duldrums” are plentiful: you’re still zipping up your bulky coat before leaving the house, you barely make it home before the sun has set, and your shovel hasn’t seen much of a break. So what now?

It is easy at this time of year to feel somewhat hopeless about the outdoors and wish that you could hibernate like the bears do. So why not start your gardening early? Most summer-blooming bulbs are great for forcing indoors, even before the ground has thawed! Not only will starting your plants indoors boost your mood and add some color to the bleak winter, but it will also give your plants a head start for the summer season. Come springtime, you’ll have the most vigorous plants in the neighborhood!

Starting Begonias Indoors

Today, I figured I’d explain the steps to starting your begonias indoors for fuller, more vigorous growth. Begonias are a great bulb to experiment with if this is your first shot at forcing since they are one of the most successful to begin indoors. Begonias also tend to be quite popular, due to their brilliant colors and ability to grow in shady areas (not to mention the namesake of my four-legged gardening buddy ) . Simply perform the following steps and you’ll be well on your way to having gorgeous begonias!

White double begonias in the grower's greenhouse.

ITEMS YOU WILL NEED:

• Begonia tubers
• Well-drained soil
• Seed trays or small pots
• Paper or plastic wrap
• General plant fertilizer
• Water

WHAT TO DO:

1. Fill the seed trays or small pots with soil.
2. In late February or March, plant the tubers (hollow side up) just below the soil level. Soil should be somewhat moist.
3. Cover with paper or plastic wrap and place on a window sill or other location with indirect maximum light. Temperature should not fall below 60°F.
4. Water sparingly until growth begins (may take up to 5-6 weeks to see growth above ground although roots have started).
5. Once shoots emerge from the soil, remove paper or plastic wrap and begin watering regularly. An application of a good liquid plant food will improve growth.
6. Once substantial growth has formed and leaves have begun to appear, transplant plants to outside container or garden.

It’s that simple! When picking a location outdoors for your begonias, remember that they thrive in semi-shade so avoid areas which receive direct midday sun. Begonias also dislike dry conditions, so be sure to water generously, especially during periods of hot weather. As with most plants, an application of well-balanced plant food every two to three weeks will encourage healthy, vigorous growth. Just remove dead, wilted leaves and flowers and you’ll have begonia blooms all summer!

The new 'Sunrise' Scentiment Begonia!

One more quick note: People are always asking me about where to purchase the newly developed fragrant begonias. One of the only places I have found them is at www.hollandbulbfarms.com. These are referred to as Scentiment® Begonias and grow with a fresh, lemony scent!

Help yourself out this year by bringing spring into your home early! And say goodbye to the winter duldrums! Good luck!

Until next time,

Like this article? Want to learn more about indoor forcing other types of bulbs? Email Bridget at bridget@bulbblog.com!